I was picked up around 9 to be at the airport by 10 for my 10:45 flight to Bhaktapur (Chitwan). Chandra couldn't make it so he sent me off at the terminal with my ticket. I had to wait about 1/2 hout before I could even check in. After that I went through security to the large waiting room.
There is only one gate. The monitors were slow or inaccurate. The P.A. was to echoy to be clear, and there was one guy yelling flight numbers in a thick accent. It was difficult to follow. By looking at the monitors I saw the 6 or 7 destinations possible. I also knew the name of th 4 or 5 airlines. With that it was at least a bit easier to tell if they were calling a different flight.
I got worried though as my time came and went. It seemed many flights were delayed though. So I bought some Pringles and a Sprite and parked myself very close to the announcer. About an hour late, we boarded.
This time I was on Cosmic Air, which although smaller, was a much newer and nicer plan. There was even a stewardess for the 18 of us on board. We landed 30 mins later on a strip of dirt. It was even hotter here than in KTM. I got my bag and looked for someone who looked like they were looking for me. It took a while, but I found him and we took a rickshaw to the hotel.
Even though there were rooms and a pool, this was just a waiting place. Our rooms were actually about an hour away inside the park by bus, then boat, then walk. There was a large party coming, and then we would go. I waited in a shady area by the pool. I talked to an Italian on his way back to KTM and got a small lunch--a veggy burger w/ chips and a salad! The burger was a half cooked thing about the size of a silver dollar on two pieces of white bread with the corners cut off. There were no fries, and the salad was worse than Tommy's. But I ate it and took a nap at the table.
After a while I was ushered inside where the rest of the group had show up. They were loud and seemed to be upset. I couldn't tell where they were from. At first I thought Italy, but then Russia. I later found out they were Greek.
We got on the bus, then the boat, and then walked to the resort. It's not bad, although I was warned about the spiders by the Italian. On a chalkboard was our activity and dinner time. We were instructed to check often to see what our next programmer was. It was 4 now, so we had lunch. At 4:30 we were already on our first programmer.
My first item was an elephant ride. It was bumpy, but cool. It didn't take long before we met a rhino in the river. There were 3 other elephants and some people walking with a guide. After watching the rhino, I noticed one of the walkers was Eddy. And Emelie was next to him. I said hello from on top of the elephant. We saw 3 more rhinos and some spotted deer and a peacock.
We got back and I had a beer at the bar. Two guys approached me and asked if I've been to Everest. I hadn't noticed them, but I guess they saw me at some of the stops. Then the Kiwi's came by.
It turns out, the day after I left them, they were flown out. Eddy was having chest pains. Everything turned out fine, but their trip was cut short. So they decided to go to Chitwan and arrived yesterday. They had taken a bus which they now regretted. (The Greeks had also taken a bus, which is why they had been complaining. However even when not complaining, they are loud and all talk at the same time.) After catching up, it was 8 and dinner time.
It was bed time after that as there was a 5:30 wake up call. Then 6:00 tea, and 6:15 activity, then another activity. It's all a bit too militaristic in its regimen.
My first activity was a walk and then boat back. It was okay, but we didn't see anything. We had breakfast where I said goodbye to the Kiwi's and was off on another elephant ride.
I was more prepared this time with the camera, but we didn't see anything. We were in a much more forested area, so we had to keep ducking branches. There was a French couple next to me, the woman looked a bit like Karen. At one point in a Sophie French accent she told me "It's not funny" as I kept laughing about all the branches, which seemed to be more on her side. She was very good natured about it though.
Sunday, April 18, 2004
Saturday, April 17, 2004
Nepal. 17 April
I was out the door with my driver by 9. We were scheduled to go to 4 sites in KTM which should have taken most of the day. Our first stop was the largest Bhuddist stupa in KTM. It was quite a drive across town, and Thamel looks like luxury living compared to the rest of KTM.
There was an entrance fee to the stupa--only foreigners have to pay. It was big. That was about it. My driver didn't have much to say about it either. We moved on to a Hindu temple. Again at entrance fee. A guide explained about Hindu customs. We saw several bodies being cremated. We saw the temple--you are not allowed in unless born a Hindu though. We met a famous guy (I forget the word for them), but they are old men who paint their faces, don't cut their hair, and eat/drink only milk. Apparently most are crackpots, but this guy is respected. He lives part time in Palo Alto. On the way out I of course had to pay the guide. I wasn't really given any indications, so I have him 500 R. He then asked for 1000, and I said no. I later found out I only should have given him 200.
Then we went to another place that is actually a walled city from the 16th century. It had many different temples of different faiths. It was actually pretty interesting but the most expensive 750 R, plus 200 for the guide. The Guide also kept urging me to buy because this is where the goods were made and much cheaper. Maybe so, but I was done shopping. He even lead me to a studio where they paint mandala's. The main guy spent time going over the 4 main types, and the qualities and meanings. They were quite amazing. But even with the hard sell--I wasn't buying. They were in fact reasonable (very nice large ones US $200) considering the amount of work put in, but I was not interested.
After that, we had one more place to go. It was hot and I was tired, so I played that up and asked the guy to take me back. Really, I was just out of money. After being prepared for the US $21 for the driver who I thought was also my guide--I was not told ahead about the entrance fees and guides. Considering I'd had dinner and a 22 oz beer for about US $5--I thought I had enough cash to last the rest of the trip. Now I had to go find an ATM again.
I went back and took a nap. I checked email and then got some cash. I'd decided that eating, drinking and the net were cheap--so that's what I have planned for the rest of my stay in KTM. I found a coffee place with a good name (Hima Latte) in the corner of Thamel that I liked. So I had coffee, read a few chapters, and people watched.
After tat I walked around a bit looking for a restaurant. I found another music store. The guy was like a used car salesman, but he did have good prices on tabla--I may go back there. I decided I had a craving for Mexican despite their tequila selection. No surprise, it wasn't very good.
Shortly after I arrived the power went out in Thamel. Mostly, the stereo was still on. They brought candles. Not much later it started raining and then hailing, as big as marbles. It had all stopped and the power was back on before I left. But on the way home it all started again. I hung out under an eve until the worst of it passed.
I got to the hotel and packed. Then I watched Legally Blonde before going to bed.
There was an entrance fee to the stupa--only foreigners have to pay. It was big. That was about it. My driver didn't have much to say about it either. We moved on to a Hindu temple. Again at entrance fee. A guide explained about Hindu customs. We saw several bodies being cremated. We saw the temple--you are not allowed in unless born a Hindu though. We met a famous guy (I forget the word for them), but they are old men who paint their faces, don't cut their hair, and eat/drink only milk. Apparently most are crackpots, but this guy is respected. He lives part time in Palo Alto. On the way out I of course had to pay the guide. I wasn't really given any indications, so I have him 500 R. He then asked for 1000, and I said no. I later found out I only should have given him 200.
Then we went to another place that is actually a walled city from the 16th century. It had many different temples of different faiths. It was actually pretty interesting but the most expensive 750 R, plus 200 for the guide. The Guide also kept urging me to buy because this is where the goods were made and much cheaper. Maybe so, but I was done shopping. He even lead me to a studio where they paint mandala's. The main guy spent time going over the 4 main types, and the qualities and meanings. They were quite amazing. But even with the hard sell--I wasn't buying. They were in fact reasonable (very nice large ones US $200) considering the amount of work put in, but I was not interested.
After that, we had one more place to go. It was hot and I was tired, so I played that up and asked the guy to take me back. Really, I was just out of money. After being prepared for the US $21 for the driver who I thought was also my guide--I was not told ahead about the entrance fees and guides. Considering I'd had dinner and a 22 oz beer for about US $5--I thought I had enough cash to last the rest of the trip. Now I had to go find an ATM again.
I went back and took a nap. I checked email and then got some cash. I'd decided that eating, drinking and the net were cheap--so that's what I have planned for the rest of my stay in KTM. I found a coffee place with a good name (Hima Latte) in the corner of Thamel that I liked. So I had coffee, read a few chapters, and people watched.
After tat I walked around a bit looking for a restaurant. I found another music store. The guy was like a used car salesman, but he did have good prices on tabla--I may go back there. I decided I had a craving for Mexican despite their tequila selection. No surprise, it wasn't very good.
Shortly after I arrived the power went out in Thamel. Mostly, the stereo was still on. They brought candles. Not much later it started raining and then hailing, as big as marbles. It had all stopped and the power was back on before I left. But on the way home it all started again. I hung out under an eve until the worst of it passed.
I got to the hotel and packed. Then I watched Legally Blonde before going to bed.
Friday, April 16, 2004
Nepal. 16 April
Got up pretty early (actually I kept waking thinking it was 5), skipped breakfast and went to the airport. The flights go as the weather goes in Lukla. We were late taking off, but by the time we left, 3 other flights were leaving as well.
Chandra met me at the airport and we went back to the hotel. We discussed my plans for the next days. Of course it was more expensive that I wanted, but not unreasonable. I was opting out of Pokhara and spending an extra day in KTM before going to Chitwan. Then I'd have a few days in KTM again. Tomorrow would be a sight-seeing day.
It turned out that the one ATM I knew that accepted Visa was broken. Actually, it was Joss who told me this as I ran into him on the street. In took me quite a while to find another. I actually had to find a bank and do a cash advance (I later found a 2nd Visa ATM). I got out enough for Chandra plus a little more.
I checked email and then had a beer. I meant to go to an Irish pub called Foley's, but I walked up the wrong stairs. No problem, they were playing Robert Cray, so I bought a $2-22 oz beer (the best thing KTM has going for it), and sipped.
Within only a few blocks of this part of Thamel are the 2 ATM's, the pub I was in, Foley's, the music store, a good bookstore ("Barnes & Noble"), and of all things…a Tequila bar! I had found my dinner spot and went back to square up with Chandra.
We had coffee and chatted for a while. I don't remember much other than how hard it is to get a visa to the US.
After that I went to the teq bar. I asked what they had and they pointed to a bottle of Sauza Blanco! I left. There was another Mexican restaurant across the way, so I tried my luck again. This time just Cuervo Silver. I ended up eating at a place with wood fired pizza. It wasn't bad, but still needed work.
I walked home after that. On the way there I ran into the 4 Canadians. We chatted a bit then split. I checked to se if my laundry was dry (I had done laundry in the sink earlier) and turned on the TV. "Heathers" was on, so I watched that and went to bed.
Chandra met me at the airport and we went back to the hotel. We discussed my plans for the next days. Of course it was more expensive that I wanted, but not unreasonable. I was opting out of Pokhara and spending an extra day in KTM before going to Chitwan. Then I'd have a few days in KTM again. Tomorrow would be a sight-seeing day.
It turned out that the one ATM I knew that accepted Visa was broken. Actually, it was Joss who told me this as I ran into him on the street. In took me quite a while to find another. I actually had to find a bank and do a cash advance (I later found a 2nd Visa ATM). I got out enough for Chandra plus a little more.
I checked email and then had a beer. I meant to go to an Irish pub called Foley's, but I walked up the wrong stairs. No problem, they were playing Robert Cray, so I bought a $2-22 oz beer (the best thing KTM has going for it), and sipped.
Within only a few blocks of this part of Thamel are the 2 ATM's, the pub I was in, Foley's, the music store, a good bookstore ("Barnes & Noble"), and of all things…a Tequila bar! I had found my dinner spot and went back to square up with Chandra.
We had coffee and chatted for a while. I don't remember much other than how hard it is to get a visa to the US.
After that I went to the teq bar. I asked what they had and they pointed to a bottle of Sauza Blanco! I left. There was another Mexican restaurant across the way, so I tried my luck again. This time just Cuervo Silver. I ended up eating at a place with wood fired pizza. It wasn't bad, but still needed work.
I walked home after that. On the way there I ran into the 4 Canadians. We chatted a bit then split. I checked to se if my laundry was dry (I had done laundry in the sink earlier) and turned on the TV. "Heathers" was on, so I watched that and went to bed.
Thursday, April 15, 2004
Nepal. 15 April
The trek that wouldn't end. By 7 I was up and having a pancake in the kitcken. We were off by 8. It took us about 2 hrs to get to the hotel Mera in Lukla where we had hired Kumar. After reading the English Newspaper I asked what time our flight was. I was told not until tomorrow. This is not what had been said the previous night. I was pissed.
A few hours later I was in the bar next door getting pissed (in the English sense). The two Brits in shorts from Labouche showed up so we drank beers and shot pool for about 6 hrs. I had already walked though roan twice and there was nothing else to do. The one place to claim internet access on their sign did not in fact have it. I did buy a book since I finished mine. Initially I was just reading that in the bar when the two English chaps came in.
A number of beers later I was less upset about being stuck inLukla, and in fact was having a good time with Joss and Luke. I brought my mp3 player down and we swapped musical influences. After a while I left to grab some dinner but was supposed to meet up again at the bar at 8:30.
Around 7:30 I had finished eating dinner and talking with Alex & John (from NZ and Tennessee) and was ready to go back. Kagi said I was not allowed to. I was told that the rebel activity was bad after dark. I saw no such activity. Also, in my walk of the city, I noticed that the Nepal Army was dressed in blue cami's--not sure what they were trying to blend in with. This was also the same army hanging their laundry to dry on the barbed wire fence around the entire airport, but at the same time left a locked gate to the runway completely open.
So now at 8, I am pissed again. While I've had a few memorable experiences, I've largely felt like the trip back from Kala Pathar has been wasted.
I'm looking forward to being back in KTM tomorrow--fingers crossed.
A few hours later I was in the bar next door getting pissed (in the English sense). The two Brits in shorts from Labouche showed up so we drank beers and shot pool for about 6 hrs. I had already walked though roan twice and there was nothing else to do. The one place to claim internet access on their sign did not in fact have it. I did buy a book since I finished mine. Initially I was just reading that in the bar when the two English chaps came in.
A number of beers later I was less upset about being stuck inLukla, and in fact was having a good time with Joss and Luke. I brought my mp3 player down and we swapped musical influences. After a while I left to grab some dinner but was supposed to meet up again at the bar at 8:30.
Around 7:30 I had finished eating dinner and talking with Alex & John (from NZ and Tennessee) and was ready to go back. Kagi said I was not allowed to. I was told that the rebel activity was bad after dark. I saw no such activity. Also, in my walk of the city, I noticed that the Nepal Army was dressed in blue cami's--not sure what they were trying to blend in with. This was also the same army hanging their laundry to dry on the barbed wire fence around the entire airport, but at the same time left a locked gate to the runway completely open.
So now at 8, I am pissed again. While I've had a few memorable experiences, I've largely felt like the trip back from Kala Pathar has been wasted.
I'm looking forward to being back in KTM tomorrow--fingers crossed.
Wednesday, April 14, 2004
Nepal. 14 April
Despite waking once and having trouble going back to sleep, I did sleep through most of the night. It seems in my big medpack, I had plenty of stuff to deal with injuries and ailments, but nothing for cold symptoms. Nonetheless, I felt much better in the morning. I did still manage to go through an entire roll of TP blowing my nose.
No surprise it took us less time to get back to Namche as it was more downhill than up. I even took a few photos, which I was in no mood to do yesterday. After a 7 am breakfast, I was not ready for a 9:30 lunch at Namche. I had to argue the point vigorously with Kagi. I conceded on tea, but even then I had to argue not to have sugar in my tea.
After a bit of a delay we headed out. We saw Kumar's basket but couldn't find Kumar. I wasn't worried though, because Kumar knew where exactly in Phakding we were spending the night. That didn't ease Kagi's mind but we move on.
It is so much easier going downhill. An hour and a half later we were already in Jorsalle (past the tall bridge). We ate, which took about an hour. Kagi wanted to wait for Kumar, so we burned another hour there. I napped for part of the time. We finally left anyway.
Maybe half an hour later we stopped for a soda (I had switched to Sprite, because they tasted normal unlike the Coke's). Kumar showed up out of breath and went straight to the spring for some water. He looked like a little boy who had been up to no good. It turns out, while in Namche he watched an entire movie. He then caught up to us in 90 minutes that took us 2 1/2 hrs--but he had a full pack! He even left before we did and got to Phakding ahead of us.
I forgot to mention earlier, on the way back from Thami, we ran into the Tibetans we had spent time with two days before. Just north of Thami is the pass back to Tibet. These guys were headed home.
Phakding was fine. As was becoming normal on the way down, I was the only tenant. I ate in the kitchen, which in was the last 13 days had been retrofitted with an iron stove instead of the clay one. I saw some of the worst craftsmanship I ever say as a guy built a tray to hold the embers. I've thought earlier on the trip what could Norm Abrams do with this place. I though it again tonight. It's not like they don't have electricity, I'm not sure why they don't take advantage of that.
Anyway, after watching that for a few hours I did some crosswords and went to bed. Tomorrow should be a short hike up to Lukla then back to KTM.
No surprise it took us less time to get back to Namche as it was more downhill than up. I even took a few photos, which I was in no mood to do yesterday. After a 7 am breakfast, I was not ready for a 9:30 lunch at Namche. I had to argue the point vigorously with Kagi. I conceded on tea, but even then I had to argue not to have sugar in my tea.
After a bit of a delay we headed out. We saw Kumar's basket but couldn't find Kumar. I wasn't worried though, because Kumar knew where exactly in Phakding we were spending the night. That didn't ease Kagi's mind but we move on.
It is so much easier going downhill. An hour and a half later we were already in Jorsalle (past the tall bridge). We ate, which took about an hour. Kagi wanted to wait for Kumar, so we burned another hour there. I napped for part of the time. We finally left anyway.
Maybe half an hour later we stopped for a soda (I had switched to Sprite, because they tasted normal unlike the Coke's). Kumar showed up out of breath and went straight to the spring for some water. He looked like a little boy who had been up to no good. It turns out, while in Namche he watched an entire movie. He then caught up to us in 90 minutes that took us 2 1/2 hrs--but he had a full pack! He even left before we did and got to Phakding ahead of us.
I forgot to mention earlier, on the way back from Thami, we ran into the Tibetans we had spent time with two days before. Just north of Thami is the pass back to Tibet. These guys were headed home.
Phakding was fine. As was becoming normal on the way down, I was the only tenant. I ate in the kitchen, which in was the last 13 days had been retrofitted with an iron stove instead of the clay one. I saw some of the worst craftsmanship I ever say as a guy built a tray to hold the embers. I've thought earlier on the trip what could Norm Abrams do with this place. I though it again tonight. It's not like they don't have electricity, I'm not sure why they don't take advantage of that.
Anyway, after watching that for a few hours I did some crosswords and went to bed. Tomorrow should be a short hike up to Lukla then back to KTM.
Tuesday, April 13, 2004
Nepal. 13 April
I started the day with cranky pants on and they pretty much didn't come off all day. I didn't sleep very well waking many times coughing and to blow my nose.
There was a knock on my door at 6 saying that we were leaving at 7. I felt pretty bad but it didn't seem like I had a choice. After packing I went downstairs to get some breakfast. I just wanted something simple that they could not mess up--I ordered cornflakes with milk and hot Tang. First came out the Tang which wasn't Tang at all, it was hot lemon. I asked the guy about it and he completely lied and said it was Tang. First of all it was yellow, second I could see the lemon pulp, and third it didn't taste like Tang. It's hard not to recognize Tang--it's fluorescent orange!
Then the cereal came out. A bowl of plain cornflakes…and a cup of hot milk. Disgusting. Every beverage is hot in Nepal. I choked down half of my cereal before giving up.
I did not want to go to Thami. Foe one thing, this could be skipped altogether. For another if you are going to include it, put it before Everest. Once I saw Everest--I was done, get me back to Lukla and KTM. And of course, I AM SICK, I didn't feel like trekking anywhere. Certainly not 2500 ft of elevation.
We stopped at Thamo about halfway through. I was dragging pretty badly. The last thing I wanted was hot tea or hot anything for that matter. I had my bottle of cold water and that was plenty. Kagi asked what I wanted, hot water? I very clearly said no. Second later Kagi brings out a cup of hot water.
It took another 2 hours of plodding to get to Thami. Once we got there, I ordered some food even though I wasn't very hungry--veg fried rice. Kagi made me get some soup even though I didn't want it. I took a nap on the bench while waiting. The food came and I couldn't finish it. I probably could have finished the rice if I didn't have soup as well.
We then got a room next door and I crashed for 2 hours. At 3 we were supposed to go see the gompa. At 2 Kagi knocked on my door to see if I was ready. I was up, so we went to see yet another gompa, 600 ft up the fill.
This is supposed to be one of the 3 oldest gompas, also including Pangboche and one other one. Originally they said it was the oldest, but Pangboche is 6000 yr old. Then they said it was 600 yrs. Then outside, I read it was only 400 yrs. So now I'm not sure of the accuracy of the dating on any of the gompas.
It looked very much like all the other gompas. Like all the old ones, they are filthy due to the hundreds of years of burning incense. After the once over I was ready to go. Kagi kept looking around and talking to the 12 yr old monk. I myself felt like a child who was being dragged along to a museum or a monument that I couldn't care about. I tried to be respectful (I was in a gompa), but show my impatience. It didn't work.
I was getting cold (you are not allowed to wear shoes inside gompas) and growing more annoyed. I even tried tapping my foot with not luck. Then about 15 Germans came in and it was all over. Kagi wanted to listen to them. They left and we finally got to as well, about an hour later. An hour is a long time to be standing around in your socks, cold, no one speaking English, and seeing things you've seen before. Just about every day before.
We finally went down. There were pictures and posters all over the lodge walls for Apa Sherpa who has summited Everest more than anyone else by a wide margin, 13 times. We went into the kitchen and had tea. The lodge owner came in and sat with us, while the kids attended to the tea. After a while they all left and it was just Kagi , Kumar and me. I said in shock to Kagi, "That's the guy?!" Sure enough it was Apa.
This of course is the one uncranky moment of the day, but even it was muted. After a while we moved back to the lodge were Apa was setting up the fire. Since we were still fairly deep in Sagarmatha NP, yak dung is still the fuel of choice. So I'm sitting in the lodge that Apa Sherpa runs (I am the only tenant that night out of 12 rooms), and Apa, a national hero is throwing yak shit into the fire so that we are warm. He is clearly an inspiring man, but it was disappointing. He's climbed the highest mountain in the world 13 times, and he has to run a lodge to pay the bills. That just doesn't sit right.
The other reason the moment was muted was that he didn't talk much, and none at all in English. I will say one more thing about him which I find astonishing. As typical of Sherpas, he's smallish man--about 5'6" with a thin frame. Anatoli Boukerev (another Everest climber I've met) had the same figure, maybe a bit taller though--wirey. If you had to picture anyone who had climbed Everest, you probably wouldn't picture these two guys.
After that, I pretty much went to bed.
There was a knock on my door at 6 saying that we were leaving at 7. I felt pretty bad but it didn't seem like I had a choice. After packing I went downstairs to get some breakfast. I just wanted something simple that they could not mess up--I ordered cornflakes with milk and hot Tang. First came out the Tang which wasn't Tang at all, it was hot lemon. I asked the guy about it and he completely lied and said it was Tang. First of all it was yellow, second I could see the lemon pulp, and third it didn't taste like Tang. It's hard not to recognize Tang--it's fluorescent orange!
Then the cereal came out. A bowl of plain cornflakes…and a cup of hot milk. Disgusting. Every beverage is hot in Nepal. I choked down half of my cereal before giving up.
I did not want to go to Thami. Foe one thing, this could be skipped altogether. For another if you are going to include it, put it before Everest. Once I saw Everest--I was done, get me back to Lukla and KTM. And of course, I AM SICK, I didn't feel like trekking anywhere. Certainly not 2500 ft of elevation.
We stopped at Thamo about halfway through. I was dragging pretty badly. The last thing I wanted was hot tea or hot anything for that matter. I had my bottle of cold water and that was plenty. Kagi asked what I wanted, hot water? I very clearly said no. Second later Kagi brings out a cup of hot water.
It took another 2 hours of plodding to get to Thami. Once we got there, I ordered some food even though I wasn't very hungry--veg fried rice. Kagi made me get some soup even though I didn't want it. I took a nap on the bench while waiting. The food came and I couldn't finish it. I probably could have finished the rice if I didn't have soup as well.
We then got a room next door and I crashed for 2 hours. At 3 we were supposed to go see the gompa. At 2 Kagi knocked on my door to see if I was ready. I was up, so we went to see yet another gompa, 600 ft up the fill.
This is supposed to be one of the 3 oldest gompas, also including Pangboche and one other one. Originally they said it was the oldest, but Pangboche is 6000 yr old. Then they said it was 600 yrs. Then outside, I read it was only 400 yrs. So now I'm not sure of the accuracy of the dating on any of the gompas.
It looked very much like all the other gompas. Like all the old ones, they are filthy due to the hundreds of years of burning incense. After the once over I was ready to go. Kagi kept looking around and talking to the 12 yr old monk. I myself felt like a child who was being dragged along to a museum or a monument that I couldn't care about. I tried to be respectful (I was in a gompa), but show my impatience. It didn't work.
I was getting cold (you are not allowed to wear shoes inside gompas) and growing more annoyed. I even tried tapping my foot with not luck. Then about 15 Germans came in and it was all over. Kagi wanted to listen to them. They left and we finally got to as well, about an hour later. An hour is a long time to be standing around in your socks, cold, no one speaking English, and seeing things you've seen before. Just about every day before.
We finally went down. There were pictures and posters all over the lodge walls for Apa Sherpa who has summited Everest more than anyone else by a wide margin, 13 times. We went into the kitchen and had tea. The lodge owner came in and sat with us, while the kids attended to the tea. After a while they all left and it was just Kagi , Kumar and me. I said in shock to Kagi, "That's the guy?!" Sure enough it was Apa.
This of course is the one uncranky moment of the day, but even it was muted. After a while we moved back to the lodge were Apa was setting up the fire. Since we were still fairly deep in Sagarmatha NP, yak dung is still the fuel of choice. So I'm sitting in the lodge that Apa Sherpa runs (I am the only tenant that night out of 12 rooms), and Apa, a national hero is throwing yak shit into the fire so that we are warm. He is clearly an inspiring man, but it was disappointing. He's climbed the highest mountain in the world 13 times, and he has to run a lodge to pay the bills. That just doesn't sit right.
The other reason the moment was muted was that he didn't talk much, and none at all in English. I will say one more thing about him which I find astonishing. As typical of Sherpas, he's smallish man--about 5'6" with a thin frame. Anatoli Boukerev (another Everest climber I've met) had the same figure, maybe a bit taller though--wirey. If you had to picture anyone who had climbed Everest, you probably wouldn't picture these two guys.
After that, I pretty much went to bed.
Monday, April 12, 2004
Nepal. 12 April
Everyone was up early. The Tibetans came back and joined us for tea. After Jam Toast, we left. It only took us about 3 hours to get to Namche. We went straight to the Sherpa Museum since it's at the top of the city. I had thought we were only stopping for lunch and email on our way to Thami. Kagi said Thami was tomorrow, so I had the rest of the day free.
I checked email and did some shopping. I think I have bought gifts for everyone I intended to now. Now I'll only buy something if it really stands out during the rest of the trip. Except, I may buy myself a gift--table drums. They are actually Indian drums (my 6th grade English Teacher's assistant had a pair and I have been fascinated ever since.) I think the shop was only selling them for US $20 in KTM, whereas back home they are $150-350.
I went back to the lodge had lunch and took a shower. This may have been the 3rd worst shower I've ever had, behind only the shower in KTM, and the shower at this same lodge in Namche going up. I do feel better clean, but it wasn't fun.
After that I read for awhile in my room. I was glad we stopped at Namche, because there was no question now--I have a cold. Congestion, sneezing, runny nose, couching. Kagi said he wasn't feeling well either, but he doesn't seem to be suffering nearly as much as me.
I got bored in my room after a while so I went out. I took a few photos. Ran into the Swede. Bought some yak cheese (it tastes fine--nothing unusual like you might expect, pretty mild). Found the other German bakery and read my book. This bakery actually bakes its goods here. I had a chocolate croissant and a "coffee" (Nescafe). Whereas the beginning of the trip was dominated by French, now the Germans are everywhere--and not just in the bakery.
I got bored of that eventually too, so I went back to my room, where I've been the last 5 hours reading and writing. I finished my book. I wasn't up to dinner so I just stayed up here and had a little bit of cheese.
If I feel like this tomorrow, I'm not sure I'll be up for Thami. Although I think I'm tired of Namche as well.
One of the things I was reading was that guy's journal. Chitwan definitely sounds interesting, but I think I'm going to tell Chandra to pass on Pohkra. That will give me more time to just hand and/or be sick in KTM.
I checked email and did some shopping. I think I have bought gifts for everyone I intended to now. Now I'll only buy something if it really stands out during the rest of the trip. Except, I may buy myself a gift--table drums. They are actually Indian drums (my 6th grade English Teacher's assistant had a pair and I have been fascinated ever since.) I think the shop was only selling them for US $20 in KTM, whereas back home they are $150-350.
I went back to the lodge had lunch and took a shower. This may have been the 3rd worst shower I've ever had, behind only the shower in KTM, and the shower at this same lodge in Namche going up. I do feel better clean, but it wasn't fun.
After that I read for awhile in my room. I was glad we stopped at Namche, because there was no question now--I have a cold. Congestion, sneezing, runny nose, couching. Kagi said he wasn't feeling well either, but he doesn't seem to be suffering nearly as much as me.
I got bored in my room after a while so I went out. I took a few photos. Ran into the Swede. Bought some yak cheese (it tastes fine--nothing unusual like you might expect, pretty mild). Found the other German bakery and read my book. This bakery actually bakes its goods here. I had a chocolate croissant and a "coffee" (Nescafe). Whereas the beginning of the trip was dominated by French, now the Germans are everywhere--and not just in the bakery.
I got bored of that eventually too, so I went back to my room, where I've been the last 5 hours reading and writing. I finished my book. I wasn't up to dinner so I just stayed up here and had a little bit of cheese.
If I feel like this tomorrow, I'm not sure I'll be up for Thami. Although I think I'm tired of Namche as well.
One of the things I was reading was that guy's journal. Chitwan definitely sounds interesting, but I think I'm going to tell Chandra to pass on Pohkra. That will give me more time to just hand and/or be sick in KTM.
Sunday, April 11, 2004
Nepal. 11 April
It was a cold morning but I was feeling better. After not one of the better attempts at pancakes and hash browns, we started out of Periche.
_It's certainly a lot easier going downhill. Even on the ups though, I noticed my HR was staying in the 140's, which is well below my anaerobic threshold and a good 10-15 beats less than a week ago. I don't necessarily feel less tired while walking up the hills, but I guess my body is adapting anyway.
We stopped at a gompa in Panngboche that was 6000 yrs old. It looked very similar to the other gompa's we've seen except more faded and worn.
Just before Tengboche we stopped for lunch. By now I'm figuring out, that it's best to eat what they're good at making. I had boiled potatoes and hot sauce. For most of the trip I don't feel like I've been treated any differently (other that I get a bed), but the cook and Kagi peeled my potatoes for me. It seemed a little unnecessary.
The cook looked like he was about 20 and could easily have fit in at any university. I don't know if he enjoyed it or not, but there wasn't much to do. When people stopped by he made tea and food, otherwise he just sat around. If he hadn't been there, there were plenty of other lodges and towns close by that trekkers probably wouldn't have even known.
So I started thinking about my job which isn't really interesting, fulfilling or important. Even if I started doing web design like I would like to do, it would certainly be more interesting, but I'm not sure it would really make a difference. I think I've got to make my time outside of work more…well just more. And there you go, my mini-revelation.
The other interesting note about that place is that there were magazine articles taped to the walls, in English and Nepalize. One caught my eye. The add on the page was for a Lexus, and the guy dreaming about it looked a lot like Chuck.
It didn't take us long to get through Tengboche and past it to a small town with lots of Tibetans. It wasn't much further to Namche, but I'm glad we spent the night here. The first place we looked at was just food, no lodge. But we found a lodge a few buildings down. Before we left I took a photo of a woman in an outfit that was pretty representative of others I'd seen. Doma Shepra had on the traditional wrap style dress and apron, and an old North Face down jacket (Mtn Hardware is also popular among the locals). I hadn't noticed until we left, but her turtle-neck under the dress--Gap.
The place we stayed was technically a lodge, it had 3 rooms, but it was very small and intimate so it felt like we were sleeping at someone's house. In fact the daughter, son-in-law and 18 mo. Baby were staying in one of the guest rooms. The room itself was probably the nicest I'd stayed in. It had a large window facing Ama Dablam and the views were stunning. It was still early, 1 or 2, so we had some time to kill. Doma's husband came down and he, Kagi and I walked to the German luxury lodge up the hill ($100 US). We had to take our boots off when we got there, but they gave us slippers. The rooms were nice--still kind of smallish with two singles (like most places I've stayed), but they had real walls, you own bathroom with real working showers and a western toilet. I'm sure the food was better than ra ra soup and momos too.
We still had lots of daylight, which we mostly spent out front. I talked with the daughter and son-in-law (who I mistakenly took for brother and sister) for a while. I thought for sure he was 18, but he was 26. He was also a guide. Their English was pretty good.
Most of the afternoon was spent talking to the Tibetans selling their wares out front. Since the extent of there English elicited the entire conversation, "Where you from?" "America. And you're from Tibet, right?" "Tibet." So mostly I watched them and the locals.
It turns out they are well liked by the locals. They are only allowed to cross over in to certain parts of Nepal. They bring hugs bags of goods from China, mostly clothes and shoes, but also radios and other items. Considering that most of our clothes are also made in Chine, but not advertised as such, this didn’t seem quite scandalous. Anyway, they will stay for maybe a month, staying in the local lodges, and with the money they've earned, but stock items like rice and salt and go back to Tibet.
They seemed like pretty genuine people. Interestingly, they did have attitude (not in bad way). They were mostly smokers. I could easily have seen then in leather jackets and riding motorcycles were they in the states.
I also played with the kids a while. At one point before dark, I noticed the mom lure the calf and mother yak inside the lodge with hay. I hadn't realized these animals were being kept as pets. It took me a while to go inside.
Eventually I got cold and went in to sit around the stove. I also found out, that going through the lodge was the only was to the back yard where the yaks slept. I watched and asked questions as the mom and daughter took turns cooking. I got to try some chyang (the local ricer beer) which was ok, not what I was expecting. I though I was feeling it, so I only had 1 1/2 glasses which was plenty. Kagi and had several and made the son-in-law go glass for glass with him until the pitcher was gone.
The Tibetans left for the night and the whole family, Kagi, Kumar (our porter) and I all ate and talked in the kitchen. While I'd talked to many other tourists, this was the first time I really go to talk to some Nepalis (Sherpas at that) besides Kagi or some of the other guides., It was nice.
_It's certainly a lot easier going downhill. Even on the ups though, I noticed my HR was staying in the 140's, which is well below my anaerobic threshold and a good 10-15 beats less than a week ago. I don't necessarily feel less tired while walking up the hills, but I guess my body is adapting anyway.
We stopped at a gompa in Panngboche that was 6000 yrs old. It looked very similar to the other gompa's we've seen except more faded and worn.
Just before Tengboche we stopped for lunch. By now I'm figuring out, that it's best to eat what they're good at making. I had boiled potatoes and hot sauce. For most of the trip I don't feel like I've been treated any differently (other that I get a bed), but the cook and Kagi peeled my potatoes for me. It seemed a little unnecessary.
The cook looked like he was about 20 and could easily have fit in at any university. I don't know if he enjoyed it or not, but there wasn't much to do. When people stopped by he made tea and food, otherwise he just sat around. If he hadn't been there, there were plenty of other lodges and towns close by that trekkers probably wouldn't have even known.
So I started thinking about my job which isn't really interesting, fulfilling or important. Even if I started doing web design like I would like to do, it would certainly be more interesting, but I'm not sure it would really make a difference. I think I've got to make my time outside of work more…well just more. And there you go, my mini-revelation.
The other interesting note about that place is that there were magazine articles taped to the walls, in English and Nepalize. One caught my eye. The add on the page was for a Lexus, and the guy dreaming about it looked a lot like Chuck.
It didn't take us long to get through Tengboche and past it to a small town with lots of Tibetans. It wasn't much further to Namche, but I'm glad we spent the night here. The first place we looked at was just food, no lodge. But we found a lodge a few buildings down. Before we left I took a photo of a woman in an outfit that was pretty representative of others I'd seen. Doma Shepra had on the traditional wrap style dress and apron, and an old North Face down jacket (Mtn Hardware is also popular among the locals). I hadn't noticed until we left, but her turtle-neck under the dress--Gap.
The place we stayed was technically a lodge, it had 3 rooms, but it was very small and intimate so it felt like we were sleeping at someone's house. In fact the daughter, son-in-law and 18 mo. Baby were staying in one of the guest rooms. The room itself was probably the nicest I'd stayed in. It had a large window facing Ama Dablam and the views were stunning. It was still early, 1 or 2, so we had some time to kill. Doma's husband came down and he, Kagi and I walked to the German luxury lodge up the hill ($100 US). We had to take our boots off when we got there, but they gave us slippers. The rooms were nice--still kind of smallish with two singles (like most places I've stayed), but they had real walls, you own bathroom with real working showers and a western toilet. I'm sure the food was better than ra ra soup and momos too.
We still had lots of daylight, which we mostly spent out front. I talked with the daughter and son-in-law (who I mistakenly took for brother and sister) for a while. I thought for sure he was 18, but he was 26. He was also a guide. Their English was pretty good.
Most of the afternoon was spent talking to the Tibetans selling their wares out front. Since the extent of there English elicited the entire conversation, "Where you from?" "America. And you're from Tibet, right?" "Tibet." So mostly I watched them and the locals.
It turns out they are well liked by the locals. They are only allowed to cross over in to certain parts of Nepal. They bring hugs bags of goods from China, mostly clothes and shoes, but also radios and other items. Considering that most of our clothes are also made in Chine, but not advertised as such, this didn’t seem quite scandalous. Anyway, they will stay for maybe a month, staying in the local lodges, and with the money they've earned, but stock items like rice and salt and go back to Tibet.
They seemed like pretty genuine people. Interestingly, they did have attitude (not in bad way). They were mostly smokers. I could easily have seen then in leather jackets and riding motorcycles were they in the states.
I also played with the kids a while. At one point before dark, I noticed the mom lure the calf and mother yak inside the lodge with hay. I hadn't realized these animals were being kept as pets. It took me a while to go inside.
Eventually I got cold and went in to sit around the stove. I also found out, that going through the lodge was the only was to the back yard where the yaks slept. I watched and asked questions as the mom and daughter took turns cooking. I got to try some chyang (the local ricer beer) which was ok, not what I was expecting. I though I was feeling it, so I only had 1 1/2 glasses which was plenty. Kagi and had several and made the son-in-law go glass for glass with him until the pitcher was gone.
The Tibetans left for the night and the whole family, Kagi, Kumar (our porter) and I all ate and talked in the kitchen. While I'd talked to many other tourists, this was the first time I really go to talk to some Nepalis (Sherpas at that) besides Kagi or some of the other guides., It was nice.
Saturday, April 10, 2004
Nepal. 10 April
Did not have a good sleep last night. It may have partially been the altitude. It may also have been going to bed at 6 (we would have an early morning today). But mostly, it was the guy sleeping next to me. I was on the end next to the ladder. He came in later, so he had to crawl over my feet which woke me up. Then we was loud. He was a loud breather, he snored, he made noises, he was even loud turning over. Finally at 4:57, this guy turns to me and says "wake up James." It was Kagi.
We had some tea but skipped breakfast and were out the door by 5:30. At this point my head hurt a little with every step, and I just felt really slow. We made it to Goram Shep around 7. This is the last stop you can possibly make for food and lodging before Kala Pathar or Base Camp. It consist of 2 buildings. I felt like I had a hangover, and walking by the kitchen that smelled like gas (kerosene stove) didn't help. I started to feel nauseous while eating my jam toast. I did feel better after finishing it though and taking my pills.
I think it took us another 2 hours to get to the top of Kala Pathar--again going slowly, it was quite steep. The peak itself is quite small, only about 2 people can fit, but just below that is more space. So I went up to the top, took a picture, then came down a few feet and shot off a couple of rolls. You could see all the big mountains from here. You could see Base Camp. Yo0u could see the South Col (the final ascent of Everest). You could see the Khumbu Ice Fall (the huge seracs that make up the beginning and most dangerous part of the Everest climb). It was awesome.
We were up there for about an hour before coming back down. It only took about 30 mins to get back to Gorak Shep. I was craving a grilled cheese sandwich (even if it was one of those Foreman types) and fries. The closest they had was a cheese and vegetable sandwich. Mine came without cheese. It was fine, but not what I was craving. I did get my "chips" but they are never good here.
On the way back to Labouche, we must have passed 100 yaks. All were carrying supplies for the Everest expeditions. Once we got back there the older Canadians had arrived, we said hello. I had tea and talked with another guy from Sweden. He lives in Oklahoma. American Airlines has a shop there, and his company supplies parts for engines, so they sent him to answer technical questions. He wasn't very thrilled, but he said most of the people were nice, and only a few were xenophobic. He also gets to travel a lot. In 3 1/2 yrs, he's been to 40 states.
We had decided not to deal with Labouche again for the night, but were going to spend the night in Periche (new Dingboche). Halfway down we stopped at Dugla again for tea. I was a little bummed--I was hoping to run into the Kiwi's on their way up, but must have missed each other.
It was quite windy and cold the rest of the way down. Once we got to the lodge I was having some trouble breathing, but I think that was because the wind kicked up my allergies.
It was a pretty quiet night. I finally got my cheese sandwich--which hit the spot, and my apple pie, which did not live up to expectations.
Kagi and I talked about our plans for the next couple of days. We are going to skip Khumjung since we already saw it. Instead there is some Sherpa museum in Namche. I'll also get to check email and buy a few more things. We will still go to Thami. We are going to go passed Tengboche for the night though since it was cold. I still wouldn't mind going back to KTM a day early, but at least this is better than before.
All of my symptoms could just be altitude and allergies, but I think I might be catching a cold. That would not be good for diving.
We had some tea but skipped breakfast and were out the door by 5:30. At this point my head hurt a little with every step, and I just felt really slow. We made it to Goram Shep around 7. This is the last stop you can possibly make for food and lodging before Kala Pathar or Base Camp. It consist of 2 buildings. I felt like I had a hangover, and walking by the kitchen that smelled like gas (kerosene stove) didn't help. I started to feel nauseous while eating my jam toast. I did feel better after finishing it though and taking my pills.
I think it took us another 2 hours to get to the top of Kala Pathar--again going slowly, it was quite steep. The peak itself is quite small, only about 2 people can fit, but just below that is more space. So I went up to the top, took a picture, then came down a few feet and shot off a couple of rolls. You could see all the big mountains from here. You could see Base Camp. Yo0u could see the South Col (the final ascent of Everest). You could see the Khumbu Ice Fall (the huge seracs that make up the beginning and most dangerous part of the Everest climb). It was awesome.
We were up there for about an hour before coming back down. It only took about 30 mins to get back to Gorak Shep. I was craving a grilled cheese sandwich (even if it was one of those Foreman types) and fries. The closest they had was a cheese and vegetable sandwich. Mine came without cheese. It was fine, but not what I was craving. I did get my "chips" but they are never good here.
On the way back to Labouche, we must have passed 100 yaks. All were carrying supplies for the Everest expeditions. Once we got back there the older Canadians had arrived, we said hello. I had tea and talked with another guy from Sweden. He lives in Oklahoma. American Airlines has a shop there, and his company supplies parts for engines, so they sent him to answer technical questions. He wasn't very thrilled, but he said most of the people were nice, and only a few were xenophobic. He also gets to travel a lot. In 3 1/2 yrs, he's been to 40 states.
We had decided not to deal with Labouche again for the night, but were going to spend the night in Periche (new Dingboche). Halfway down we stopped at Dugla again for tea. I was a little bummed--I was hoping to run into the Kiwi's on their way up, but must have missed each other.
It was quite windy and cold the rest of the way down. Once we got to the lodge I was having some trouble breathing, but I think that was because the wind kicked up my allergies.
It was a pretty quiet night. I finally got my cheese sandwich--which hit the spot, and my apple pie, which did not live up to expectations.
Kagi and I talked about our plans for the next couple of days. We are going to skip Khumjung since we already saw it. Instead there is some Sherpa museum in Namche. I'll also get to check email and buy a few more things. We will still go to Thami. We are going to go passed Tengboche for the night though since it was cold. I still wouldn't mind going back to KTM a day early, but at least this is better than before.
All of my symptoms could just be altitude and allergies, but I think I might be catching a cold. That would not be good for diving.
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