Friday, April 9, 2004

Nepal. 9 April

I'm in a very crowded lodge right now--indoors and getting snowed on. There are about 30 of us, but a few hours ago 40 of us crammed in here. This is in fact where I'll be sleeping, in the dining room. Labouche is tiny, all of 8 buildings, all lodges, all full. Even the camp grounds are crowded. This is the last stop up and down between below and Kala Pathar (black rock), Gorak Shep, and Base Camp.

Was up again at 5 this morning, out of the bag at 6, and snapped a few pics. Then went to the lodge and waited a while before having tea and breakfast. Some of the clouds I had taken pics of were now upon us, and as the French were saying, "Le blanc." Fortunately it rolled through about an hour later. I had no headache in the morning, which was a good sign.

It didn't take long to return during the difficult climb up to Dugla which took about 1:45. Kagi announced this is where we were having lunch. It was only 9:45! I was quite annoyed and certainly not hungry after a big breakfast. Nonetheless a group of 12 Aussies joined and they were good for a laugh. At some point the conversation turned to men wearing skirts while trekking. Then jokes ensued about a cold wind going up your skirt. And the low point was one of them chimed in something about skid marks in their sleeping bag. There was also a Danish couple of girls--one looked like Nicole Richie.

The rest of the climb was easier and we got here around noon. The lodge filled up quickly with the stragglers covered in snow. It was too crowded to move, and too cold to do anything. For the next two hours I sat there doing nothing more than trying to think myself warm. The palm trees on the window shades were mocking me.

I couldn't take it any more so I put on another layer top and bottom and went for a walk. I was gone about an hour. My headache returned (it goes away when I stop), but I warmed up, it stopped snowing (for a while) and was slightly less crowded when I got back. I need to use the bathroom, but it would be far too much work getting out and back to my seat. I'll just wait until after dinner.

Once again, I've been stymied on the apple pie. The first couple of days I wasn't ready for it or not feeling well enough. Last night I was ready…but it wasn't on the menu. Tonight I was ready but they were out. The apple pies look like calzone. As do the spring rolls. Yesterday I had a potato spring roll, and in lieu of apple pie, I had a cinnamon roll, also calzone style.

They have sunglasses here, the first I've seen since Namche. Depending on the price, I might buy them--I'm worried that with the snow it will be too bright for my small cheap glasses. They don't have aloe lotion though (again, I'm sure Namche does), which I could use for my arms, and now my neck. I guess the back of my neck has gotten burned while hiking. Burned twice--now it's sunblock every time.

Along the way we've passed some rubbish, not too much though. Some of it kept catching my eye though--condom wrappers. I finally realized it's the flavor packets from the ra ra (ramen) noodles. I suspect btw they are not veggy, so I'm not asking.

After looking at the itinerary again, it isn't any shorter going down. It turns out we stay in different places on the way down. But aside from Thami, we ate lunch in Jorsale, and already went through Khumjung. So I'm not thrilled about the extra time. I've been told you could actually get all the way down to Lukla in a day, not that I'd want to, but neither do I want to take a week. I'd just as soon get back to KTM a day earlier, but I doubt I can change my plane ticket. So I guess I'd rather go back to Namche where I could check email, and finish shopping. (I thought of a house warming gift for Kelly--a wind chime made from cowbells [yak bells]).

Despite no apple pie, and no custard pudding things took an enjoyable turn. It turns out the Aussie's were playing euchre. There were some slight variations, like cards face up, no screw the dealer, wins at 11. Also they had a variation for 6 player, just use 7's and up instead of 9's. One of the guys and I talked strategy.

Then, I got a room after all. It's dormitory style, which is fine. And it's with the Aussies.

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