It's almost 9 pm at Namche. I'm not feeling terribly well. But since I haven't had to run to the bathroom, I'll assume it's just the altitude and hope I'm better tomorrow. I did take a nap earlier hoping I'd feel better, then go out to the bars tonight. Besides not feeling well, I notice the front door of the hotel is locked, so I guess I wasn't going out anyway.
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It's 4 am now and I woke because I had to use the loo (again a western style toila). I'm feeling much better and was hungry, which is a good sign, so I had a Cliff bar. I'd only had a cheese pizza for dinner, which was ok. It was at least as good as a Tombstone or other frozen pizza. I had wanted some apple pie or an apple filter (fritter) but wasn't up for it at the time. Being up now gave me a chance to snap some photos out the front window. I tried before I went to bed because the full moon was over the mountains, but it was too cloudy. I don't know if any of them will turn out because it was so dark. I did use 1-4 sec exposures. I've realized I need to take more pics.
After being up at 3 yesterday, I read for a while then got another hour maybe of sleep. Then the Japanese tour was too noisy so I got up. I had some tea and ordered rara (noodle) soup and chapattis and an omelet (flat). It took quite some time since the Japanese had already ordered and there was only 1 hour burner clay stove (which I forgot to take a pic of).
I ended up talking to Brian (the Canadian) for a while. He recognized my camera. I don't remember the whole conversation, but he did mention he was an adventure racer. He also said he bought a house and about 30k acres for $40k in the middle of BC.
After a late start (7:30) we got going. We were quickly in some steep terrain. My HR was up to 171 (which would be the high of the day) when we were on some long stairish section. We'd gained about 1500 ft by the time we got to Monju 1 1/2 hrs later. We stopped and had a drink. I was thirsty for a cold drink, so I got a coke (which isn't covered by my package--neither are showers, but Kagi paid for it--maybe we'll settle up at the end?) The coke was only mildly cold, and it tasted weird anyway--but I drank it. I was ready to go, but Kagi waited 1/2 hour.
We've been passed and have passed many yaks on the trail. Usually 3 or 4, but sometimes as many as 10. They're big, slow and weave. So you just get as far to the side or off the trail as possible when the come. When you are passing them though, it's a bit tougher, sometimes running by and then right in front of them--watching out for the horns.
There's also lots of chickens and roosters around the towns. One of them started crowing, which made me think of the "coo-coo-ri-coo" song, which made me think of Sophie.
There are many children along the way. Most are completely indifferent, but some will stare or say "Namaste." There is very little begging, but one group did say "Hello boom boom" which meant they were asking for chocolate or sweets. I've also passed several playing hacky-sack w/ a clump of grass. I'd though about bringing mine, and I would have given it to them.
We stopped in Jorsalle for lunch where I had dal bhat (rice & lentils). I was a little nervous because the guy who's journal I've been reading got sick from them. I thought they were tasty though & had no problems. I talked with a Kiwi couple and their guide. It turns out today is the hardest of the trek. I feel bad for the couple because they hadn't hired a porter and were going very slowly. I think they are going to hire one in Namche. We stayed here too long IMHO.
I was getting used to the bridges today. I realized it was like walking on an anchored boat--sway, sway, sway. The tallest one wasn't even the worst one. It was an older wooden suspension, but it seemed to move less.
After a big uphill we stopped for a rest. Again we waited longer than I had wanted, and I was getting cold. We started walking and I joined up w/ some Brits because Kagi was talking to a friend and going slowly. One of the Brits broke out in a Phil Collins song, the "Eye of the Tiger" and later a Madonna song. They had a very good sense of humor as many Brits do. Not long after that we were in Namche.
We walked past the stupa and payer wheels (clockwise of course) past some large water powered prayer wheels (which didn't turn) through the street(s) of Namche and up to Hotel Norling. It is on an upper left terrace of the U shaped city.
It's a nice enough lodge, again I'm in a double by myself (Kagi sleeps in the dining room). However, it claims to have an international phone, but Kagi couldn't even call KTM. It also claims 3 hot showers, but only 1 of them works…sort of. My shower was hot & cold with little & no pressure. I was cleanish, but I didn't feel better and had a chill.
I met Kagi and he showed me around town, which was not necessary since it really only has one main street. Plus, I wasn't interested in anything else at that point except email & the post office. There are lots of shops, and of course they have mostly the same stuff. We won't be stopping in Namche on the way down, so I'll probably have to buy while I'm here. It's very hard to decide what to buy people though.
After a while we got to a cyber cafe. Kagi waited. Finally he left, so I got to finish and walk around a bit. I also picked up postcards. I played some shop owner's guitar as well--he assumed I played because of the long hair. I need to learn gtr better though--it's a good ice breaker, but I don't play well enough to start a conversation.
It was at this point that I wasn't feeling good, so I took a nap.
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