I was picked up around 9 to be at the airport by 10 for my 10:45 flight to Bhaktapur (Chitwan). Chandra couldn't make it so he sent me off at the terminal with my ticket. I had to wait about 1/2 hout before I could even check in. After that I went through security to the large waiting room.
There is only one gate. The monitors were slow or inaccurate. The P.A. was to echoy to be clear, and there was one guy yelling flight numbers in a thick accent. It was difficult to follow. By looking at the monitors I saw the 6 or 7 destinations possible. I also knew the name of th 4 or 5 airlines. With that it was at least a bit easier to tell if they were calling a different flight.
I got worried though as my time came and went. It seemed many flights were delayed though. So I bought some Pringles and a Sprite and parked myself very close to the announcer. About an hour late, we boarded.
This time I was on Cosmic Air, which although smaller, was a much newer and nicer plan. There was even a stewardess for the 18 of us on board. We landed 30 mins later on a strip of dirt. It was even hotter here than in KTM. I got my bag and looked for someone who looked like they were looking for me. It took a while, but I found him and we took a rickshaw to the hotel.
Even though there were rooms and a pool, this was just a waiting place. Our rooms were actually about an hour away inside the park by bus, then boat, then walk. There was a large party coming, and then we would go. I waited in a shady area by the pool. I talked to an Italian on his way back to KTM and got a small lunch--a veggy burger w/ chips and a salad! The burger was a half cooked thing about the size of a silver dollar on two pieces of white bread with the corners cut off. There were no fries, and the salad was worse than Tommy's. But I ate it and took a nap at the table.
After a while I was ushered inside where the rest of the group had show up. They were loud and seemed to be upset. I couldn't tell where they were from. At first I thought Italy, but then Russia. I later found out they were Greek.
We got on the bus, then the boat, and then walked to the resort. It's not bad, although I was warned about the spiders by the Italian. On a chalkboard was our activity and dinner time. We were instructed to check often to see what our next programmer was. It was 4 now, so we had lunch. At 4:30 we were already on our first programmer.
My first item was an elephant ride. It was bumpy, but cool. It didn't take long before we met a rhino in the river. There were 3 other elephants and some people walking with a guide. After watching the rhino, I noticed one of the walkers was Eddy. And Emelie was next to him. I said hello from on top of the elephant. We saw 3 more rhinos and some spotted deer and a peacock.
We got back and I had a beer at the bar. Two guys approached me and asked if I've been to Everest. I hadn't noticed them, but I guess they saw me at some of the stops. Then the Kiwi's came by.
It turns out, the day after I left them, they were flown out. Eddy was having chest pains. Everything turned out fine, but their trip was cut short. So they decided to go to Chitwan and arrived yesterday. They had taken a bus which they now regretted. (The Greeks had also taken a bus, which is why they had been complaining. However even when not complaining, they are loud and all talk at the same time.) After catching up, it was 8 and dinner time.
It was bed time after that as there was a 5:30 wake up call. Then 6:00 tea, and 6:15 activity, then another activity. It's all a bit too militaristic in its regimen.
My first activity was a walk and then boat back. It was okay, but we didn't see anything. We had breakfast where I said goodbye to the Kiwi's and was off on another elephant ride.
I was more prepared this time with the camera, but we didn't see anything. We were in a much more forested area, so we had to keep ducking branches. There was a French couple next to me, the woman looked a bit like Karen. At one point in a Sophie French accent she told me "It's not funny" as I kept laughing about all the branches, which seemed to be more on her side. She was very good natured about it though.
Sunday, April 18, 2004
Saturday, April 17, 2004
Nepal. 17 April
I was out the door with my driver by 9. We were scheduled to go to 4 sites in KTM which should have taken most of the day. Our first stop was the largest Bhuddist stupa in KTM. It was quite a drive across town, and Thamel looks like luxury living compared to the rest of KTM.
There was an entrance fee to the stupa--only foreigners have to pay. It was big. That was about it. My driver didn't have much to say about it either. We moved on to a Hindu temple. Again at entrance fee. A guide explained about Hindu customs. We saw several bodies being cremated. We saw the temple--you are not allowed in unless born a Hindu though. We met a famous guy (I forget the word for them), but they are old men who paint their faces, don't cut their hair, and eat/drink only milk. Apparently most are crackpots, but this guy is respected. He lives part time in Palo Alto. On the way out I of course had to pay the guide. I wasn't really given any indications, so I have him 500 R. He then asked for 1000, and I said no. I later found out I only should have given him 200.
Then we went to another place that is actually a walled city from the 16th century. It had many different temples of different faiths. It was actually pretty interesting but the most expensive 750 R, plus 200 for the guide. The Guide also kept urging me to buy because this is where the goods were made and much cheaper. Maybe so, but I was done shopping. He even lead me to a studio where they paint mandala's. The main guy spent time going over the 4 main types, and the qualities and meanings. They were quite amazing. But even with the hard sell--I wasn't buying. They were in fact reasonable (very nice large ones US $200) considering the amount of work put in, but I was not interested.
After that, we had one more place to go. It was hot and I was tired, so I played that up and asked the guy to take me back. Really, I was just out of money. After being prepared for the US $21 for the driver who I thought was also my guide--I was not told ahead about the entrance fees and guides. Considering I'd had dinner and a 22 oz beer for about US $5--I thought I had enough cash to last the rest of the trip. Now I had to go find an ATM again.
I went back and took a nap. I checked email and then got some cash. I'd decided that eating, drinking and the net were cheap--so that's what I have planned for the rest of my stay in KTM. I found a coffee place with a good name (Hima Latte) in the corner of Thamel that I liked. So I had coffee, read a few chapters, and people watched.
After tat I walked around a bit looking for a restaurant. I found another music store. The guy was like a used car salesman, but he did have good prices on tabla--I may go back there. I decided I had a craving for Mexican despite their tequila selection. No surprise, it wasn't very good.
Shortly after I arrived the power went out in Thamel. Mostly, the stereo was still on. They brought candles. Not much later it started raining and then hailing, as big as marbles. It had all stopped and the power was back on before I left. But on the way home it all started again. I hung out under an eve until the worst of it passed.
I got to the hotel and packed. Then I watched Legally Blonde before going to bed.
There was an entrance fee to the stupa--only foreigners have to pay. It was big. That was about it. My driver didn't have much to say about it either. We moved on to a Hindu temple. Again at entrance fee. A guide explained about Hindu customs. We saw several bodies being cremated. We saw the temple--you are not allowed in unless born a Hindu though. We met a famous guy (I forget the word for them), but they are old men who paint their faces, don't cut their hair, and eat/drink only milk. Apparently most are crackpots, but this guy is respected. He lives part time in Palo Alto. On the way out I of course had to pay the guide. I wasn't really given any indications, so I have him 500 R. He then asked for 1000, and I said no. I later found out I only should have given him 200.
Then we went to another place that is actually a walled city from the 16th century. It had many different temples of different faiths. It was actually pretty interesting but the most expensive 750 R, plus 200 for the guide. The Guide also kept urging me to buy because this is where the goods were made and much cheaper. Maybe so, but I was done shopping. He even lead me to a studio where they paint mandala's. The main guy spent time going over the 4 main types, and the qualities and meanings. They were quite amazing. But even with the hard sell--I wasn't buying. They were in fact reasonable (very nice large ones US $200) considering the amount of work put in, but I was not interested.
After that, we had one more place to go. It was hot and I was tired, so I played that up and asked the guy to take me back. Really, I was just out of money. After being prepared for the US $21 for the driver who I thought was also my guide--I was not told ahead about the entrance fees and guides. Considering I'd had dinner and a 22 oz beer for about US $5--I thought I had enough cash to last the rest of the trip. Now I had to go find an ATM again.
I went back and took a nap. I checked email and then got some cash. I'd decided that eating, drinking and the net were cheap--so that's what I have planned for the rest of my stay in KTM. I found a coffee place with a good name (Hima Latte) in the corner of Thamel that I liked. So I had coffee, read a few chapters, and people watched.
After tat I walked around a bit looking for a restaurant. I found another music store. The guy was like a used car salesman, but he did have good prices on tabla--I may go back there. I decided I had a craving for Mexican despite their tequila selection. No surprise, it wasn't very good.
Shortly after I arrived the power went out in Thamel. Mostly, the stereo was still on. They brought candles. Not much later it started raining and then hailing, as big as marbles. It had all stopped and the power was back on before I left. But on the way home it all started again. I hung out under an eve until the worst of it passed.
I got to the hotel and packed. Then I watched Legally Blonde before going to bed.
Friday, April 16, 2004
Nepal. 16 April
Got up pretty early (actually I kept waking thinking it was 5), skipped breakfast and went to the airport. The flights go as the weather goes in Lukla. We were late taking off, but by the time we left, 3 other flights were leaving as well.
Chandra met me at the airport and we went back to the hotel. We discussed my plans for the next days. Of course it was more expensive that I wanted, but not unreasonable. I was opting out of Pokhara and spending an extra day in KTM before going to Chitwan. Then I'd have a few days in KTM again. Tomorrow would be a sight-seeing day.
It turned out that the one ATM I knew that accepted Visa was broken. Actually, it was Joss who told me this as I ran into him on the street. In took me quite a while to find another. I actually had to find a bank and do a cash advance (I later found a 2nd Visa ATM). I got out enough for Chandra plus a little more.
I checked email and then had a beer. I meant to go to an Irish pub called Foley's, but I walked up the wrong stairs. No problem, they were playing Robert Cray, so I bought a $2-22 oz beer (the best thing KTM has going for it), and sipped.
Within only a few blocks of this part of Thamel are the 2 ATM's, the pub I was in, Foley's, the music store, a good bookstore ("Barnes & Noble"), and of all things…a Tequila bar! I had found my dinner spot and went back to square up with Chandra.
We had coffee and chatted for a while. I don't remember much other than how hard it is to get a visa to the US.
After that I went to the teq bar. I asked what they had and they pointed to a bottle of Sauza Blanco! I left. There was another Mexican restaurant across the way, so I tried my luck again. This time just Cuervo Silver. I ended up eating at a place with wood fired pizza. It wasn't bad, but still needed work.
I walked home after that. On the way there I ran into the 4 Canadians. We chatted a bit then split. I checked to se if my laundry was dry (I had done laundry in the sink earlier) and turned on the TV. "Heathers" was on, so I watched that and went to bed.
Chandra met me at the airport and we went back to the hotel. We discussed my plans for the next days. Of course it was more expensive that I wanted, but not unreasonable. I was opting out of Pokhara and spending an extra day in KTM before going to Chitwan. Then I'd have a few days in KTM again. Tomorrow would be a sight-seeing day.
It turned out that the one ATM I knew that accepted Visa was broken. Actually, it was Joss who told me this as I ran into him on the street. In took me quite a while to find another. I actually had to find a bank and do a cash advance (I later found a 2nd Visa ATM). I got out enough for Chandra plus a little more.
I checked email and then had a beer. I meant to go to an Irish pub called Foley's, but I walked up the wrong stairs. No problem, they were playing Robert Cray, so I bought a $2-22 oz beer (the best thing KTM has going for it), and sipped.
Within only a few blocks of this part of Thamel are the 2 ATM's, the pub I was in, Foley's, the music store, a good bookstore ("Barnes & Noble"), and of all things…a Tequila bar! I had found my dinner spot and went back to square up with Chandra.
We had coffee and chatted for a while. I don't remember much other than how hard it is to get a visa to the US.
After that I went to the teq bar. I asked what they had and they pointed to a bottle of Sauza Blanco! I left. There was another Mexican restaurant across the way, so I tried my luck again. This time just Cuervo Silver. I ended up eating at a place with wood fired pizza. It wasn't bad, but still needed work.
I walked home after that. On the way there I ran into the 4 Canadians. We chatted a bit then split. I checked to se if my laundry was dry (I had done laundry in the sink earlier) and turned on the TV. "Heathers" was on, so I watched that and went to bed.
Thursday, April 15, 2004
Nepal. 15 April
The trek that wouldn't end. By 7 I was up and having a pancake in the kitcken. We were off by 8. It took us about 2 hrs to get to the hotel Mera in Lukla where we had hired Kumar. After reading the English Newspaper I asked what time our flight was. I was told not until tomorrow. This is not what had been said the previous night. I was pissed.
A few hours later I was in the bar next door getting pissed (in the English sense). The two Brits in shorts from Labouche showed up so we drank beers and shot pool for about 6 hrs. I had already walked though roan twice and there was nothing else to do. The one place to claim internet access on their sign did not in fact have it. I did buy a book since I finished mine. Initially I was just reading that in the bar when the two English chaps came in.
A number of beers later I was less upset about being stuck inLukla, and in fact was having a good time with Joss and Luke. I brought my mp3 player down and we swapped musical influences. After a while I left to grab some dinner but was supposed to meet up again at the bar at 8:30.
Around 7:30 I had finished eating dinner and talking with Alex & John (from NZ and Tennessee) and was ready to go back. Kagi said I was not allowed to. I was told that the rebel activity was bad after dark. I saw no such activity. Also, in my walk of the city, I noticed that the Nepal Army was dressed in blue cami's--not sure what they were trying to blend in with. This was also the same army hanging their laundry to dry on the barbed wire fence around the entire airport, but at the same time left a locked gate to the runway completely open.
So now at 8, I am pissed again. While I've had a few memorable experiences, I've largely felt like the trip back from Kala Pathar has been wasted.
I'm looking forward to being back in KTM tomorrow--fingers crossed.
A few hours later I was in the bar next door getting pissed (in the English sense). The two Brits in shorts from Labouche showed up so we drank beers and shot pool for about 6 hrs. I had already walked though roan twice and there was nothing else to do. The one place to claim internet access on their sign did not in fact have it. I did buy a book since I finished mine. Initially I was just reading that in the bar when the two English chaps came in.
A number of beers later I was less upset about being stuck inLukla, and in fact was having a good time with Joss and Luke. I brought my mp3 player down and we swapped musical influences. After a while I left to grab some dinner but was supposed to meet up again at the bar at 8:30.
Around 7:30 I had finished eating dinner and talking with Alex & John (from NZ and Tennessee) and was ready to go back. Kagi said I was not allowed to. I was told that the rebel activity was bad after dark. I saw no such activity. Also, in my walk of the city, I noticed that the Nepal Army was dressed in blue cami's--not sure what they were trying to blend in with. This was also the same army hanging their laundry to dry on the barbed wire fence around the entire airport, but at the same time left a locked gate to the runway completely open.
So now at 8, I am pissed again. While I've had a few memorable experiences, I've largely felt like the trip back from Kala Pathar has been wasted.
I'm looking forward to being back in KTM tomorrow--fingers crossed.
Wednesday, April 14, 2004
Nepal. 14 April
Despite waking once and having trouble going back to sleep, I did sleep through most of the night. It seems in my big medpack, I had plenty of stuff to deal with injuries and ailments, but nothing for cold symptoms. Nonetheless, I felt much better in the morning. I did still manage to go through an entire roll of TP blowing my nose.
No surprise it took us less time to get back to Namche as it was more downhill than up. I even took a few photos, which I was in no mood to do yesterday. After a 7 am breakfast, I was not ready for a 9:30 lunch at Namche. I had to argue the point vigorously with Kagi. I conceded on tea, but even then I had to argue not to have sugar in my tea.
After a bit of a delay we headed out. We saw Kumar's basket but couldn't find Kumar. I wasn't worried though, because Kumar knew where exactly in Phakding we were spending the night. That didn't ease Kagi's mind but we move on.
It is so much easier going downhill. An hour and a half later we were already in Jorsalle (past the tall bridge). We ate, which took about an hour. Kagi wanted to wait for Kumar, so we burned another hour there. I napped for part of the time. We finally left anyway.
Maybe half an hour later we stopped for a soda (I had switched to Sprite, because they tasted normal unlike the Coke's). Kumar showed up out of breath and went straight to the spring for some water. He looked like a little boy who had been up to no good. It turns out, while in Namche he watched an entire movie. He then caught up to us in 90 minutes that took us 2 1/2 hrs--but he had a full pack! He even left before we did and got to Phakding ahead of us.
I forgot to mention earlier, on the way back from Thami, we ran into the Tibetans we had spent time with two days before. Just north of Thami is the pass back to Tibet. These guys were headed home.
Phakding was fine. As was becoming normal on the way down, I was the only tenant. I ate in the kitchen, which in was the last 13 days had been retrofitted with an iron stove instead of the clay one. I saw some of the worst craftsmanship I ever say as a guy built a tray to hold the embers. I've thought earlier on the trip what could Norm Abrams do with this place. I though it again tonight. It's not like they don't have electricity, I'm not sure why they don't take advantage of that.
Anyway, after watching that for a few hours I did some crosswords and went to bed. Tomorrow should be a short hike up to Lukla then back to KTM.
No surprise it took us less time to get back to Namche as it was more downhill than up. I even took a few photos, which I was in no mood to do yesterday. After a 7 am breakfast, I was not ready for a 9:30 lunch at Namche. I had to argue the point vigorously with Kagi. I conceded on tea, but even then I had to argue not to have sugar in my tea.
After a bit of a delay we headed out. We saw Kumar's basket but couldn't find Kumar. I wasn't worried though, because Kumar knew where exactly in Phakding we were spending the night. That didn't ease Kagi's mind but we move on.
It is so much easier going downhill. An hour and a half later we were already in Jorsalle (past the tall bridge). We ate, which took about an hour. Kagi wanted to wait for Kumar, so we burned another hour there. I napped for part of the time. We finally left anyway.
Maybe half an hour later we stopped for a soda (I had switched to Sprite, because they tasted normal unlike the Coke's). Kumar showed up out of breath and went straight to the spring for some water. He looked like a little boy who had been up to no good. It turns out, while in Namche he watched an entire movie. He then caught up to us in 90 minutes that took us 2 1/2 hrs--but he had a full pack! He even left before we did and got to Phakding ahead of us.
I forgot to mention earlier, on the way back from Thami, we ran into the Tibetans we had spent time with two days before. Just north of Thami is the pass back to Tibet. These guys were headed home.
Phakding was fine. As was becoming normal on the way down, I was the only tenant. I ate in the kitchen, which in was the last 13 days had been retrofitted with an iron stove instead of the clay one. I saw some of the worst craftsmanship I ever say as a guy built a tray to hold the embers. I've thought earlier on the trip what could Norm Abrams do with this place. I though it again tonight. It's not like they don't have electricity, I'm not sure why they don't take advantage of that.
Anyway, after watching that for a few hours I did some crosswords and went to bed. Tomorrow should be a short hike up to Lukla then back to KTM.
Tuesday, April 13, 2004
Nepal. 13 April
I started the day with cranky pants on and they pretty much didn't come off all day. I didn't sleep very well waking many times coughing and to blow my nose.
There was a knock on my door at 6 saying that we were leaving at 7. I felt pretty bad but it didn't seem like I had a choice. After packing I went downstairs to get some breakfast. I just wanted something simple that they could not mess up--I ordered cornflakes with milk and hot Tang. First came out the Tang which wasn't Tang at all, it was hot lemon. I asked the guy about it and he completely lied and said it was Tang. First of all it was yellow, second I could see the lemon pulp, and third it didn't taste like Tang. It's hard not to recognize Tang--it's fluorescent orange!
Then the cereal came out. A bowl of plain cornflakes…and a cup of hot milk. Disgusting. Every beverage is hot in Nepal. I choked down half of my cereal before giving up.
I did not want to go to Thami. Foe one thing, this could be skipped altogether. For another if you are going to include it, put it before Everest. Once I saw Everest--I was done, get me back to Lukla and KTM. And of course, I AM SICK, I didn't feel like trekking anywhere. Certainly not 2500 ft of elevation.
We stopped at Thamo about halfway through. I was dragging pretty badly. The last thing I wanted was hot tea or hot anything for that matter. I had my bottle of cold water and that was plenty. Kagi asked what I wanted, hot water? I very clearly said no. Second later Kagi brings out a cup of hot water.
It took another 2 hours of plodding to get to Thami. Once we got there, I ordered some food even though I wasn't very hungry--veg fried rice. Kagi made me get some soup even though I didn't want it. I took a nap on the bench while waiting. The food came and I couldn't finish it. I probably could have finished the rice if I didn't have soup as well.
We then got a room next door and I crashed for 2 hours. At 3 we were supposed to go see the gompa. At 2 Kagi knocked on my door to see if I was ready. I was up, so we went to see yet another gompa, 600 ft up the fill.
This is supposed to be one of the 3 oldest gompas, also including Pangboche and one other one. Originally they said it was the oldest, but Pangboche is 6000 yr old. Then they said it was 600 yrs. Then outside, I read it was only 400 yrs. So now I'm not sure of the accuracy of the dating on any of the gompas.
It looked very much like all the other gompas. Like all the old ones, they are filthy due to the hundreds of years of burning incense. After the once over I was ready to go. Kagi kept looking around and talking to the 12 yr old monk. I myself felt like a child who was being dragged along to a museum or a monument that I couldn't care about. I tried to be respectful (I was in a gompa), but show my impatience. It didn't work.
I was getting cold (you are not allowed to wear shoes inside gompas) and growing more annoyed. I even tried tapping my foot with not luck. Then about 15 Germans came in and it was all over. Kagi wanted to listen to them. They left and we finally got to as well, about an hour later. An hour is a long time to be standing around in your socks, cold, no one speaking English, and seeing things you've seen before. Just about every day before.
We finally went down. There were pictures and posters all over the lodge walls for Apa Sherpa who has summited Everest more than anyone else by a wide margin, 13 times. We went into the kitchen and had tea. The lodge owner came in and sat with us, while the kids attended to the tea. After a while they all left and it was just Kagi , Kumar and me. I said in shock to Kagi, "That's the guy?!" Sure enough it was Apa.
This of course is the one uncranky moment of the day, but even it was muted. After a while we moved back to the lodge were Apa was setting up the fire. Since we were still fairly deep in Sagarmatha NP, yak dung is still the fuel of choice. So I'm sitting in the lodge that Apa Sherpa runs (I am the only tenant that night out of 12 rooms), and Apa, a national hero is throwing yak shit into the fire so that we are warm. He is clearly an inspiring man, but it was disappointing. He's climbed the highest mountain in the world 13 times, and he has to run a lodge to pay the bills. That just doesn't sit right.
The other reason the moment was muted was that he didn't talk much, and none at all in English. I will say one more thing about him which I find astonishing. As typical of Sherpas, he's smallish man--about 5'6" with a thin frame. Anatoli Boukerev (another Everest climber I've met) had the same figure, maybe a bit taller though--wirey. If you had to picture anyone who had climbed Everest, you probably wouldn't picture these two guys.
After that, I pretty much went to bed.
There was a knock on my door at 6 saying that we were leaving at 7. I felt pretty bad but it didn't seem like I had a choice. After packing I went downstairs to get some breakfast. I just wanted something simple that they could not mess up--I ordered cornflakes with milk and hot Tang. First came out the Tang which wasn't Tang at all, it was hot lemon. I asked the guy about it and he completely lied and said it was Tang. First of all it was yellow, second I could see the lemon pulp, and third it didn't taste like Tang. It's hard not to recognize Tang--it's fluorescent orange!
Then the cereal came out. A bowl of plain cornflakes…and a cup of hot milk. Disgusting. Every beverage is hot in Nepal. I choked down half of my cereal before giving up.
I did not want to go to Thami. Foe one thing, this could be skipped altogether. For another if you are going to include it, put it before Everest. Once I saw Everest--I was done, get me back to Lukla and KTM. And of course, I AM SICK, I didn't feel like trekking anywhere. Certainly not 2500 ft of elevation.
We stopped at Thamo about halfway through. I was dragging pretty badly. The last thing I wanted was hot tea or hot anything for that matter. I had my bottle of cold water and that was plenty. Kagi asked what I wanted, hot water? I very clearly said no. Second later Kagi brings out a cup of hot water.
It took another 2 hours of plodding to get to Thami. Once we got there, I ordered some food even though I wasn't very hungry--veg fried rice. Kagi made me get some soup even though I didn't want it. I took a nap on the bench while waiting. The food came and I couldn't finish it. I probably could have finished the rice if I didn't have soup as well.
We then got a room next door and I crashed for 2 hours. At 3 we were supposed to go see the gompa. At 2 Kagi knocked on my door to see if I was ready. I was up, so we went to see yet another gompa, 600 ft up the fill.
This is supposed to be one of the 3 oldest gompas, also including Pangboche and one other one. Originally they said it was the oldest, but Pangboche is 6000 yr old. Then they said it was 600 yrs. Then outside, I read it was only 400 yrs. So now I'm not sure of the accuracy of the dating on any of the gompas.
It looked very much like all the other gompas. Like all the old ones, they are filthy due to the hundreds of years of burning incense. After the once over I was ready to go. Kagi kept looking around and talking to the 12 yr old monk. I myself felt like a child who was being dragged along to a museum or a monument that I couldn't care about. I tried to be respectful (I was in a gompa), but show my impatience. It didn't work.
I was getting cold (you are not allowed to wear shoes inside gompas) and growing more annoyed. I even tried tapping my foot with not luck. Then about 15 Germans came in and it was all over. Kagi wanted to listen to them. They left and we finally got to as well, about an hour later. An hour is a long time to be standing around in your socks, cold, no one speaking English, and seeing things you've seen before. Just about every day before.
We finally went down. There were pictures and posters all over the lodge walls for Apa Sherpa who has summited Everest more than anyone else by a wide margin, 13 times. We went into the kitchen and had tea. The lodge owner came in and sat with us, while the kids attended to the tea. After a while they all left and it was just Kagi , Kumar and me. I said in shock to Kagi, "That's the guy?!" Sure enough it was Apa.
This of course is the one uncranky moment of the day, but even it was muted. After a while we moved back to the lodge were Apa was setting up the fire. Since we were still fairly deep in Sagarmatha NP, yak dung is still the fuel of choice. So I'm sitting in the lodge that Apa Sherpa runs (I am the only tenant that night out of 12 rooms), and Apa, a national hero is throwing yak shit into the fire so that we are warm. He is clearly an inspiring man, but it was disappointing. He's climbed the highest mountain in the world 13 times, and he has to run a lodge to pay the bills. That just doesn't sit right.
The other reason the moment was muted was that he didn't talk much, and none at all in English. I will say one more thing about him which I find astonishing. As typical of Sherpas, he's smallish man--about 5'6" with a thin frame. Anatoli Boukerev (another Everest climber I've met) had the same figure, maybe a bit taller though--wirey. If you had to picture anyone who had climbed Everest, you probably wouldn't picture these two guys.
After that, I pretty much went to bed.
Monday, April 12, 2004
Nepal. 12 April
Everyone was up early. The Tibetans came back and joined us for tea. After Jam Toast, we left. It only took us about 3 hours to get to Namche. We went straight to the Sherpa Museum since it's at the top of the city. I had thought we were only stopping for lunch and email on our way to Thami. Kagi said Thami was tomorrow, so I had the rest of the day free.
I checked email and did some shopping. I think I have bought gifts for everyone I intended to now. Now I'll only buy something if it really stands out during the rest of the trip. Except, I may buy myself a gift--table drums. They are actually Indian drums (my 6th grade English Teacher's assistant had a pair and I have been fascinated ever since.) I think the shop was only selling them for US $20 in KTM, whereas back home they are $150-350.
I went back to the lodge had lunch and took a shower. This may have been the 3rd worst shower I've ever had, behind only the shower in KTM, and the shower at this same lodge in Namche going up. I do feel better clean, but it wasn't fun.
After that I read for awhile in my room. I was glad we stopped at Namche, because there was no question now--I have a cold. Congestion, sneezing, runny nose, couching. Kagi said he wasn't feeling well either, but he doesn't seem to be suffering nearly as much as me.
I got bored in my room after a while so I went out. I took a few photos. Ran into the Swede. Bought some yak cheese (it tastes fine--nothing unusual like you might expect, pretty mild). Found the other German bakery and read my book. This bakery actually bakes its goods here. I had a chocolate croissant and a "coffee" (Nescafe). Whereas the beginning of the trip was dominated by French, now the Germans are everywhere--and not just in the bakery.
I got bored of that eventually too, so I went back to my room, where I've been the last 5 hours reading and writing. I finished my book. I wasn't up to dinner so I just stayed up here and had a little bit of cheese.
If I feel like this tomorrow, I'm not sure I'll be up for Thami. Although I think I'm tired of Namche as well.
One of the things I was reading was that guy's journal. Chitwan definitely sounds interesting, but I think I'm going to tell Chandra to pass on Pohkra. That will give me more time to just hand and/or be sick in KTM.
I checked email and did some shopping. I think I have bought gifts for everyone I intended to now. Now I'll only buy something if it really stands out during the rest of the trip. Except, I may buy myself a gift--table drums. They are actually Indian drums (my 6th grade English Teacher's assistant had a pair and I have been fascinated ever since.) I think the shop was only selling them for US $20 in KTM, whereas back home they are $150-350.
I went back to the lodge had lunch and took a shower. This may have been the 3rd worst shower I've ever had, behind only the shower in KTM, and the shower at this same lodge in Namche going up. I do feel better clean, but it wasn't fun.
After that I read for awhile in my room. I was glad we stopped at Namche, because there was no question now--I have a cold. Congestion, sneezing, runny nose, couching. Kagi said he wasn't feeling well either, but he doesn't seem to be suffering nearly as much as me.
I got bored in my room after a while so I went out. I took a few photos. Ran into the Swede. Bought some yak cheese (it tastes fine--nothing unusual like you might expect, pretty mild). Found the other German bakery and read my book. This bakery actually bakes its goods here. I had a chocolate croissant and a "coffee" (Nescafe). Whereas the beginning of the trip was dominated by French, now the Germans are everywhere--and not just in the bakery.
I got bored of that eventually too, so I went back to my room, where I've been the last 5 hours reading and writing. I finished my book. I wasn't up to dinner so I just stayed up here and had a little bit of cheese.
If I feel like this tomorrow, I'm not sure I'll be up for Thami. Although I think I'm tired of Namche as well.
One of the things I was reading was that guy's journal. Chitwan definitely sounds interesting, but I think I'm going to tell Chandra to pass on Pohkra. That will give me more time to just hand and/or be sick in KTM.
Sunday, April 11, 2004
Nepal. 11 April
It was a cold morning but I was feeling better. After not one of the better attempts at pancakes and hash browns, we started out of Periche.
_It's certainly a lot easier going downhill. Even on the ups though, I noticed my HR was staying in the 140's, which is well below my anaerobic threshold and a good 10-15 beats less than a week ago. I don't necessarily feel less tired while walking up the hills, but I guess my body is adapting anyway.
We stopped at a gompa in Panngboche that was 6000 yrs old. It looked very similar to the other gompa's we've seen except more faded and worn.
Just before Tengboche we stopped for lunch. By now I'm figuring out, that it's best to eat what they're good at making. I had boiled potatoes and hot sauce. For most of the trip I don't feel like I've been treated any differently (other that I get a bed), but the cook and Kagi peeled my potatoes for me. It seemed a little unnecessary.
The cook looked like he was about 20 and could easily have fit in at any university. I don't know if he enjoyed it or not, but there wasn't much to do. When people stopped by he made tea and food, otherwise he just sat around. If he hadn't been there, there were plenty of other lodges and towns close by that trekkers probably wouldn't have even known.
So I started thinking about my job which isn't really interesting, fulfilling or important. Even if I started doing web design like I would like to do, it would certainly be more interesting, but I'm not sure it would really make a difference. I think I've got to make my time outside of work more…well just more. And there you go, my mini-revelation.
The other interesting note about that place is that there were magazine articles taped to the walls, in English and Nepalize. One caught my eye. The add on the page was for a Lexus, and the guy dreaming about it looked a lot like Chuck.
It didn't take us long to get through Tengboche and past it to a small town with lots of Tibetans. It wasn't much further to Namche, but I'm glad we spent the night here. The first place we looked at was just food, no lodge. But we found a lodge a few buildings down. Before we left I took a photo of a woman in an outfit that was pretty representative of others I'd seen. Doma Shepra had on the traditional wrap style dress and apron, and an old North Face down jacket (Mtn Hardware is also popular among the locals). I hadn't noticed until we left, but her turtle-neck under the dress--Gap.
The place we stayed was technically a lodge, it had 3 rooms, but it was very small and intimate so it felt like we were sleeping at someone's house. In fact the daughter, son-in-law and 18 mo. Baby were staying in one of the guest rooms. The room itself was probably the nicest I'd stayed in. It had a large window facing Ama Dablam and the views were stunning. It was still early, 1 or 2, so we had some time to kill. Doma's husband came down and he, Kagi and I walked to the German luxury lodge up the hill ($100 US). We had to take our boots off when we got there, but they gave us slippers. The rooms were nice--still kind of smallish with two singles (like most places I've stayed), but they had real walls, you own bathroom with real working showers and a western toilet. I'm sure the food was better than ra ra soup and momos too.
We still had lots of daylight, which we mostly spent out front. I talked with the daughter and son-in-law (who I mistakenly took for brother and sister) for a while. I thought for sure he was 18, but he was 26. He was also a guide. Their English was pretty good.
Most of the afternoon was spent talking to the Tibetans selling their wares out front. Since the extent of there English elicited the entire conversation, "Where you from?" "America. And you're from Tibet, right?" "Tibet." So mostly I watched them and the locals.
It turns out they are well liked by the locals. They are only allowed to cross over in to certain parts of Nepal. They bring hugs bags of goods from China, mostly clothes and shoes, but also radios and other items. Considering that most of our clothes are also made in Chine, but not advertised as such, this didn’t seem quite scandalous. Anyway, they will stay for maybe a month, staying in the local lodges, and with the money they've earned, but stock items like rice and salt and go back to Tibet.
They seemed like pretty genuine people. Interestingly, they did have attitude (not in bad way). They were mostly smokers. I could easily have seen then in leather jackets and riding motorcycles were they in the states.
I also played with the kids a while. At one point before dark, I noticed the mom lure the calf and mother yak inside the lodge with hay. I hadn't realized these animals were being kept as pets. It took me a while to go inside.
Eventually I got cold and went in to sit around the stove. I also found out, that going through the lodge was the only was to the back yard where the yaks slept. I watched and asked questions as the mom and daughter took turns cooking. I got to try some chyang (the local ricer beer) which was ok, not what I was expecting. I though I was feeling it, so I only had 1 1/2 glasses which was plenty. Kagi and had several and made the son-in-law go glass for glass with him until the pitcher was gone.
The Tibetans left for the night and the whole family, Kagi, Kumar (our porter) and I all ate and talked in the kitchen. While I'd talked to many other tourists, this was the first time I really go to talk to some Nepalis (Sherpas at that) besides Kagi or some of the other guides., It was nice.
_It's certainly a lot easier going downhill. Even on the ups though, I noticed my HR was staying in the 140's, which is well below my anaerobic threshold and a good 10-15 beats less than a week ago. I don't necessarily feel less tired while walking up the hills, but I guess my body is adapting anyway.
We stopped at a gompa in Panngboche that was 6000 yrs old. It looked very similar to the other gompa's we've seen except more faded and worn.
Just before Tengboche we stopped for lunch. By now I'm figuring out, that it's best to eat what they're good at making. I had boiled potatoes and hot sauce. For most of the trip I don't feel like I've been treated any differently (other that I get a bed), but the cook and Kagi peeled my potatoes for me. It seemed a little unnecessary.
The cook looked like he was about 20 and could easily have fit in at any university. I don't know if he enjoyed it or not, but there wasn't much to do. When people stopped by he made tea and food, otherwise he just sat around. If he hadn't been there, there were plenty of other lodges and towns close by that trekkers probably wouldn't have even known.
So I started thinking about my job which isn't really interesting, fulfilling or important. Even if I started doing web design like I would like to do, it would certainly be more interesting, but I'm not sure it would really make a difference. I think I've got to make my time outside of work more…well just more. And there you go, my mini-revelation.
The other interesting note about that place is that there were magazine articles taped to the walls, in English and Nepalize. One caught my eye. The add on the page was for a Lexus, and the guy dreaming about it looked a lot like Chuck.
It didn't take us long to get through Tengboche and past it to a small town with lots of Tibetans. It wasn't much further to Namche, but I'm glad we spent the night here. The first place we looked at was just food, no lodge. But we found a lodge a few buildings down. Before we left I took a photo of a woman in an outfit that was pretty representative of others I'd seen. Doma Shepra had on the traditional wrap style dress and apron, and an old North Face down jacket (Mtn Hardware is also popular among the locals). I hadn't noticed until we left, but her turtle-neck under the dress--Gap.
The place we stayed was technically a lodge, it had 3 rooms, but it was very small and intimate so it felt like we were sleeping at someone's house. In fact the daughter, son-in-law and 18 mo. Baby were staying in one of the guest rooms. The room itself was probably the nicest I'd stayed in. It had a large window facing Ama Dablam and the views were stunning. It was still early, 1 or 2, so we had some time to kill. Doma's husband came down and he, Kagi and I walked to the German luxury lodge up the hill ($100 US). We had to take our boots off when we got there, but they gave us slippers. The rooms were nice--still kind of smallish with two singles (like most places I've stayed), but they had real walls, you own bathroom with real working showers and a western toilet. I'm sure the food was better than ra ra soup and momos too.
We still had lots of daylight, which we mostly spent out front. I talked with the daughter and son-in-law (who I mistakenly took for brother and sister) for a while. I thought for sure he was 18, but he was 26. He was also a guide. Their English was pretty good.
Most of the afternoon was spent talking to the Tibetans selling their wares out front. Since the extent of there English elicited the entire conversation, "Where you from?" "America. And you're from Tibet, right?" "Tibet." So mostly I watched them and the locals.
It turns out they are well liked by the locals. They are only allowed to cross over in to certain parts of Nepal. They bring hugs bags of goods from China, mostly clothes and shoes, but also radios and other items. Considering that most of our clothes are also made in Chine, but not advertised as such, this didn’t seem quite scandalous. Anyway, they will stay for maybe a month, staying in the local lodges, and with the money they've earned, but stock items like rice and salt and go back to Tibet.
They seemed like pretty genuine people. Interestingly, they did have attitude (not in bad way). They were mostly smokers. I could easily have seen then in leather jackets and riding motorcycles were they in the states.
I also played with the kids a while. At one point before dark, I noticed the mom lure the calf and mother yak inside the lodge with hay. I hadn't realized these animals were being kept as pets. It took me a while to go inside.
Eventually I got cold and went in to sit around the stove. I also found out, that going through the lodge was the only was to the back yard where the yaks slept. I watched and asked questions as the mom and daughter took turns cooking. I got to try some chyang (the local ricer beer) which was ok, not what I was expecting. I though I was feeling it, so I only had 1 1/2 glasses which was plenty. Kagi and had several and made the son-in-law go glass for glass with him until the pitcher was gone.
The Tibetans left for the night and the whole family, Kagi, Kumar (our porter) and I all ate and talked in the kitchen. While I'd talked to many other tourists, this was the first time I really go to talk to some Nepalis (Sherpas at that) besides Kagi or some of the other guides., It was nice.
Saturday, April 10, 2004
Nepal. 10 April
Did not have a good sleep last night. It may have partially been the altitude. It may also have been going to bed at 6 (we would have an early morning today). But mostly, it was the guy sleeping next to me. I was on the end next to the ladder. He came in later, so he had to crawl over my feet which woke me up. Then we was loud. He was a loud breather, he snored, he made noises, he was even loud turning over. Finally at 4:57, this guy turns to me and says "wake up James." It was Kagi.
We had some tea but skipped breakfast and were out the door by 5:30. At this point my head hurt a little with every step, and I just felt really slow. We made it to Goram Shep around 7. This is the last stop you can possibly make for food and lodging before Kala Pathar or Base Camp. It consist of 2 buildings. I felt like I had a hangover, and walking by the kitchen that smelled like gas (kerosene stove) didn't help. I started to feel nauseous while eating my jam toast. I did feel better after finishing it though and taking my pills.
I think it took us another 2 hours to get to the top of Kala Pathar--again going slowly, it was quite steep. The peak itself is quite small, only about 2 people can fit, but just below that is more space. So I went up to the top, took a picture, then came down a few feet and shot off a couple of rolls. You could see all the big mountains from here. You could see Base Camp. Yo0u could see the South Col (the final ascent of Everest). You could see the Khumbu Ice Fall (the huge seracs that make up the beginning and most dangerous part of the Everest climb). It was awesome.
We were up there for about an hour before coming back down. It only took about 30 mins to get back to Gorak Shep. I was craving a grilled cheese sandwich (even if it was one of those Foreman types) and fries. The closest they had was a cheese and vegetable sandwich. Mine came without cheese. It was fine, but not what I was craving. I did get my "chips" but they are never good here.
On the way back to Labouche, we must have passed 100 yaks. All were carrying supplies for the Everest expeditions. Once we got back there the older Canadians had arrived, we said hello. I had tea and talked with another guy from Sweden. He lives in Oklahoma. American Airlines has a shop there, and his company supplies parts for engines, so they sent him to answer technical questions. He wasn't very thrilled, but he said most of the people were nice, and only a few were xenophobic. He also gets to travel a lot. In 3 1/2 yrs, he's been to 40 states.
We had decided not to deal with Labouche again for the night, but were going to spend the night in Periche (new Dingboche). Halfway down we stopped at Dugla again for tea. I was a little bummed--I was hoping to run into the Kiwi's on their way up, but must have missed each other.
It was quite windy and cold the rest of the way down. Once we got to the lodge I was having some trouble breathing, but I think that was because the wind kicked up my allergies.
It was a pretty quiet night. I finally got my cheese sandwich--which hit the spot, and my apple pie, which did not live up to expectations.
Kagi and I talked about our plans for the next couple of days. We are going to skip Khumjung since we already saw it. Instead there is some Sherpa museum in Namche. I'll also get to check email and buy a few more things. We will still go to Thami. We are going to go passed Tengboche for the night though since it was cold. I still wouldn't mind going back to KTM a day early, but at least this is better than before.
All of my symptoms could just be altitude and allergies, but I think I might be catching a cold. That would not be good for diving.
We had some tea but skipped breakfast and were out the door by 5:30. At this point my head hurt a little with every step, and I just felt really slow. We made it to Goram Shep around 7. This is the last stop you can possibly make for food and lodging before Kala Pathar or Base Camp. It consist of 2 buildings. I felt like I had a hangover, and walking by the kitchen that smelled like gas (kerosene stove) didn't help. I started to feel nauseous while eating my jam toast. I did feel better after finishing it though and taking my pills.
I think it took us another 2 hours to get to the top of Kala Pathar--again going slowly, it was quite steep. The peak itself is quite small, only about 2 people can fit, but just below that is more space. So I went up to the top, took a picture, then came down a few feet and shot off a couple of rolls. You could see all the big mountains from here. You could see Base Camp. Yo0u could see the South Col (the final ascent of Everest). You could see the Khumbu Ice Fall (the huge seracs that make up the beginning and most dangerous part of the Everest climb). It was awesome.
We were up there for about an hour before coming back down. It only took about 30 mins to get back to Gorak Shep. I was craving a grilled cheese sandwich (even if it was one of those Foreman types) and fries. The closest they had was a cheese and vegetable sandwich. Mine came without cheese. It was fine, but not what I was craving. I did get my "chips" but they are never good here.
On the way back to Labouche, we must have passed 100 yaks. All were carrying supplies for the Everest expeditions. Once we got back there the older Canadians had arrived, we said hello. I had tea and talked with another guy from Sweden. He lives in Oklahoma. American Airlines has a shop there, and his company supplies parts for engines, so they sent him to answer technical questions. He wasn't very thrilled, but he said most of the people were nice, and only a few were xenophobic. He also gets to travel a lot. In 3 1/2 yrs, he's been to 40 states.
We had decided not to deal with Labouche again for the night, but were going to spend the night in Periche (new Dingboche). Halfway down we stopped at Dugla again for tea. I was a little bummed--I was hoping to run into the Kiwi's on their way up, but must have missed each other.
It was quite windy and cold the rest of the way down. Once we got to the lodge I was having some trouble breathing, but I think that was because the wind kicked up my allergies.
It was a pretty quiet night. I finally got my cheese sandwich--which hit the spot, and my apple pie, which did not live up to expectations.
Kagi and I talked about our plans for the next couple of days. We are going to skip Khumjung since we already saw it. Instead there is some Sherpa museum in Namche. I'll also get to check email and buy a few more things. We will still go to Thami. We are going to go passed Tengboche for the night though since it was cold. I still wouldn't mind going back to KTM a day early, but at least this is better than before.
All of my symptoms could just be altitude and allergies, but I think I might be catching a cold. That would not be good for diving.
Friday, April 9, 2004
Nepal. 9 April
I'm in a very crowded lodge right now--indoors and getting snowed on. There are about 30 of us, but a few hours ago 40 of us crammed in here. This is in fact where I'll be sleeping, in the dining room. Labouche is tiny, all of 8 buildings, all lodges, all full. Even the camp grounds are crowded. This is the last stop up and down between below and Kala Pathar (black rock), Gorak Shep, and Base Camp.
Was up again at 5 this morning, out of the bag at 6, and snapped a few pics. Then went to the lodge and waited a while before having tea and breakfast. Some of the clouds I had taken pics of were now upon us, and as the French were saying, "Le blanc." Fortunately it rolled through about an hour later. I had no headache in the morning, which was a good sign.
It didn't take long to return during the difficult climb up to Dugla which took about 1:45. Kagi announced this is where we were having lunch. It was only 9:45! I was quite annoyed and certainly not hungry after a big breakfast. Nonetheless a group of 12 Aussies joined and they were good for a laugh. At some point the conversation turned to men wearing skirts while trekking. Then jokes ensued about a cold wind going up your skirt. And the low point was one of them chimed in something about skid marks in their sleeping bag. There was also a Danish couple of girls--one looked like Nicole Richie.
The rest of the climb was easier and we got here around noon. The lodge filled up quickly with the stragglers covered in snow. It was too crowded to move, and too cold to do anything. For the next two hours I sat there doing nothing more than trying to think myself warm. The palm trees on the window shades were mocking me.
I couldn't take it any more so I put on another layer top and bottom and went for a walk. I was gone about an hour. My headache returned (it goes away when I stop), but I warmed up, it stopped snowing (for a while) and was slightly less crowded when I got back. I need to use the bathroom, but it would be far too much work getting out and back to my seat. I'll just wait until after dinner.
Once again, I've been stymied on the apple pie. The first couple of days I wasn't ready for it or not feeling well enough. Last night I was ready…but it wasn't on the menu. Tonight I was ready but they were out. The apple pies look like calzone. As do the spring rolls. Yesterday I had a potato spring roll, and in lieu of apple pie, I had a cinnamon roll, also calzone style.
They have sunglasses here, the first I've seen since Namche. Depending on the price, I might buy them--I'm worried that with the snow it will be too bright for my small cheap glasses. They don't have aloe lotion though (again, I'm sure Namche does), which I could use for my arms, and now my neck. I guess the back of my neck has gotten burned while hiking. Burned twice--now it's sunblock every time.
Along the way we've passed some rubbish, not too much though. Some of it kept catching my eye though--condom wrappers. I finally realized it's the flavor packets from the ra ra (ramen) noodles. I suspect btw they are not veggy, so I'm not asking.
After looking at the itinerary again, it isn't any shorter going down. It turns out we stay in different places on the way down. But aside from Thami, we ate lunch in Jorsale, and already went through Khumjung. So I'm not thrilled about the extra time. I've been told you could actually get all the way down to Lukla in a day, not that I'd want to, but neither do I want to take a week. I'd just as soon get back to KTM a day earlier, but I doubt I can change my plane ticket. So I guess I'd rather go back to Namche where I could check email, and finish shopping. (I thought of a house warming gift for Kelly--a wind chime made from cowbells [yak bells]).
Despite no apple pie, and no custard pudding things took an enjoyable turn. It turns out the Aussie's were playing euchre. There were some slight variations, like cards face up, no screw the dealer, wins at 11. Also they had a variation for 6 player, just use 7's and up instead of 9's. One of the guys and I talked strategy.
Then, I got a room after all. It's dormitory style, which is fine. And it's with the Aussies.
Was up again at 5 this morning, out of the bag at 6, and snapped a few pics. Then went to the lodge and waited a while before having tea and breakfast. Some of the clouds I had taken pics of were now upon us, and as the French were saying, "Le blanc." Fortunately it rolled through about an hour later. I had no headache in the morning, which was a good sign.
It didn't take long to return during the difficult climb up to Dugla which took about 1:45. Kagi announced this is where we were having lunch. It was only 9:45! I was quite annoyed and certainly not hungry after a big breakfast. Nonetheless a group of 12 Aussies joined and they were good for a laugh. At some point the conversation turned to men wearing skirts while trekking. Then jokes ensued about a cold wind going up your skirt. And the low point was one of them chimed in something about skid marks in their sleeping bag. There was also a Danish couple of girls--one looked like Nicole Richie.
The rest of the climb was easier and we got here around noon. The lodge filled up quickly with the stragglers covered in snow. It was too crowded to move, and too cold to do anything. For the next two hours I sat there doing nothing more than trying to think myself warm. The palm trees on the window shades were mocking me.
I couldn't take it any more so I put on another layer top and bottom and went for a walk. I was gone about an hour. My headache returned (it goes away when I stop), but I warmed up, it stopped snowing (for a while) and was slightly less crowded when I got back. I need to use the bathroom, but it would be far too much work getting out and back to my seat. I'll just wait until after dinner.
Once again, I've been stymied on the apple pie. The first couple of days I wasn't ready for it or not feeling well enough. Last night I was ready…but it wasn't on the menu. Tonight I was ready but they were out. The apple pies look like calzone. As do the spring rolls. Yesterday I had a potato spring roll, and in lieu of apple pie, I had a cinnamon roll, also calzone style.
They have sunglasses here, the first I've seen since Namche. Depending on the price, I might buy them--I'm worried that with the snow it will be too bright for my small cheap glasses. They don't have aloe lotion though (again, I'm sure Namche does), which I could use for my arms, and now my neck. I guess the back of my neck has gotten burned while hiking. Burned twice--now it's sunblock every time.
Along the way we've passed some rubbish, not too much though. Some of it kept catching my eye though--condom wrappers. I finally realized it's the flavor packets from the ra ra (ramen) noodles. I suspect btw they are not veggy, so I'm not asking.
After looking at the itinerary again, it isn't any shorter going down. It turns out we stay in different places on the way down. But aside from Thami, we ate lunch in Jorsale, and already went through Khumjung. So I'm not thrilled about the extra time. I've been told you could actually get all the way down to Lukla in a day, not that I'd want to, but neither do I want to take a week. I'd just as soon get back to KTM a day earlier, but I doubt I can change my plane ticket. So I guess I'd rather go back to Namche where I could check email, and finish shopping. (I thought of a house warming gift for Kelly--a wind chime made from cowbells [yak bells]).
Despite no apple pie, and no custard pudding things took an enjoyable turn. It turns out the Aussie's were playing euchre. There were some slight variations, like cards face up, no screw the dealer, wins at 11. Also they had a variation for 6 player, just use 7's and up instead of 9's. One of the guys and I talked strategy.
Then, I got a room after all. It's dormitory style, which is fine. And it's with the Aussies.
Thursday, April 8, 2004
Nepal. 8 April
I woke at 5, but was cold and didn't want to get out of bed. So I listened to music for an hour. I was getting up when Kagi knocked on my door to say it was nice out. So I hurries and sure enough it was amazing. I snapped another roll of the monastery and mountains, but this time in good light. I stopped by the visitor center and bought yet another shawl, this time for Christi. I also picked up a postcard of a ceremony inside the gompa, because I'm worried it was too dark for mine to turn out. Besides, there was no ceremony when I was there.
After breakfast we left at 8 to the now common "We go now James. Slowly…very slowly." Which really means we alt at a moderate to brisk pace then stop somewhere for too long. It is in this manner that we play one of the trail games, leapfrog--we pass people and yaks going our way, then they pass us while we rest (for too long).
Another of the trail games is chicken--where your opponent is oncoming yaks. We always lose at the last second. (I was corrected btw by another guide. Dzopyik's can go to any altitude. Yaks can't go below 10k, but due to the temp, not the air.)
Finally the third game I'll call "The Perry Pass." If you're on a one lane trail and get stuck behind yaks going the same way, you're stuck. But every so often, you get 1 1/2 lanes, but only for a few meters before it narrows again. So you have to book around them, clear the horns coming up your tail, and get back on the trail before you run out of room. It is much like I would expect Matthew Perry to be like passing a car on a one lane highway with oncoming traffic much too close. This little maneuver also winds you having to sprint at 12k ft. But I digress.
We stopped for lunch for so long everyone passed us. We waited so long, we never caught up with anyone except one old Japanese man close to our destination. Bad day for leapfrog.
Nonetheless it was an easier day than yesterday. I did have s slight headache that ibuprofen took care of. Hopefully it doesn't get worse tonight,
We're at another 100 R lodge, but the rooms are nicer. Unfortunately the lodge isn't. It's cold up here, and they don't start the stove until the evening. As it turns out the yak dung fueled stove only heats the one foot perimeter around it. If there's one thing the lodges on this trek need, it's insulation. Two would of course be real toilets--even porta-potties would be a step up.
I've had quite some time to kill since we've been here so long. This time I brought more stuff to entertain myself in the lodge, but as mentioned before, it was cold, so I quickly got tired of my books.
I did watch the Sherpas play cards for a while. They were playing Spades (they called it Rummy though). I was able to follow mostly (all the trump games are basically the same), but it did look like there was some bidding going on after dealing, which I couldn't follow. I asked Kagi later, but this was one of the few times we weren't able to communicate effectively with one another. Anyway, again most of them weren't very good.
There was also a group of 6 French in the lodge. SO at this point there were 13 people. 6 speaking French, 6 Nepalise, and me understanding none of it. After complaining earlier in the day about how crowded it was, there are enough lodges that none of my acquaintances are at mine. Not the Kiwis, Swedes, Canadians, or the German girl (she headed back to Namche). To quote an Apple ad, "It's kind of…a bummer."
I just stepped outside and stargazed. It was too cold to stay out. It's been too cloudy or I've been asleep too soon to see them. It's a shame because places like this or Wyoming--the sky is more white with stars than it is dark.
April--various days, things I'd left out.
I lost my good Oakley sunglasses in Namche. I guess it's karma--I had found a similar pair at the wine tasting.
My dinner at Tengboche caused quite a stir. I had the cheese sandwich. I couldn't tell if it was yak cheese because there was also onion and mustard, and that was all you could taster. More important was its shape. It had been pressed into two triangle wedges a la George Foreman Grill or some such thing. At least 3 people ordered the same after seeing mine.
I order garlic soup ate Dingboche after about 3 spoonfuls, I was done. I AM done with garlic soup. Even if it is supposed to be good for altitude.
The small prayer wheels (~1 ft high) have prayer books in them--the same ones the monks chant from. The tall one (8-10 ft) have thousand of them. Every turn of the wheel is like saying the prayer. So turning a large one is like saying a million prayers.
The large mani stone are "relatively" new. The smaller main tablets can be 600 yrs old. The large prayer wheel next to my lodge at Tengboche is 2500 yrs old.
Kagi had 4 children 3 mos-9 yrs. He guides so much he doesn't see them very much. He didn't seem too upset about this. (Nor too happy though). Sometimes in the morning he sings.
The Namche people (maybe even the whole area) are considered wealthy due to the profits they've made off of trekkers. As a result more kids are able to stay in school longer without having to quit to work. Also, the cooks and other help are rarely the owners of even from Khumbu. They hire them for cheap from other parts of Nepal. It's a bit like us hiring Mexicans and Salvadoreans in our restaurant kitchens.
There is an aversion to paper. No napkins. And Obviously no TP.
I had OJ today from a can. It tasted like no OJ I've ever had, maybe more like tangerine juice. Also stated on the can "40% juice."
I saw tahr today. This was the second time but I didn't have my camera out, and they were too far away anyway. Kagi didn't even see them and kept calling them yaks--which were next to the tahr (mtn goats). Another guide however confirmed. Kagi's nice and helpful, but this was another incident that makes me think I'm with the wrong guide.
I haven't had any blisters, but I have warded off some with duct tape. I haven't had problems sleeping, which I hear some people are having. And I haven't had an intestinal problems, although I do get nervous every time my stomach gurgles. Knock on wood.
Ama Dablam means Mother Double Mountain. Again, learned from someone else's guide.
The Canadians said trekking through Peru is great and "luxury" compared to this.
I've met quite a few nationalities including a Hungarian and a half French Half Portuguese. I'm met no Spanish speakers though.
After breakfast we left at 8 to the now common "We go now James. Slowly…very slowly." Which really means we alt at a moderate to brisk pace then stop somewhere for too long. It is in this manner that we play one of the trail games, leapfrog--we pass people and yaks going our way, then they pass us while we rest (for too long).
Another of the trail games is chicken--where your opponent is oncoming yaks. We always lose at the last second. (I was corrected btw by another guide. Dzopyik's can go to any altitude. Yaks can't go below 10k, but due to the temp, not the air.)
Finally the third game I'll call "The Perry Pass." If you're on a one lane trail and get stuck behind yaks going the same way, you're stuck. But every so often, you get 1 1/2 lanes, but only for a few meters before it narrows again. So you have to book around them, clear the horns coming up your tail, and get back on the trail before you run out of room. It is much like I would expect Matthew Perry to be like passing a car on a one lane highway with oncoming traffic much too close. This little maneuver also winds you having to sprint at 12k ft. But I digress.
We stopped for lunch for so long everyone passed us. We waited so long, we never caught up with anyone except one old Japanese man close to our destination. Bad day for leapfrog.
Nonetheless it was an easier day than yesterday. I did have s slight headache that ibuprofen took care of. Hopefully it doesn't get worse tonight,
We're at another 100 R lodge, but the rooms are nicer. Unfortunately the lodge isn't. It's cold up here, and they don't start the stove until the evening. As it turns out the yak dung fueled stove only heats the one foot perimeter around it. If there's one thing the lodges on this trek need, it's insulation. Two would of course be real toilets--even porta-potties would be a step up.
I've had quite some time to kill since we've been here so long. This time I brought more stuff to entertain myself in the lodge, but as mentioned before, it was cold, so I quickly got tired of my books.
I did watch the Sherpas play cards for a while. They were playing Spades (they called it Rummy though). I was able to follow mostly (all the trump games are basically the same), but it did look like there was some bidding going on after dealing, which I couldn't follow. I asked Kagi later, but this was one of the few times we weren't able to communicate effectively with one another. Anyway, again most of them weren't very good.
There was also a group of 6 French in the lodge. SO at this point there were 13 people. 6 speaking French, 6 Nepalise, and me understanding none of it. After complaining earlier in the day about how crowded it was, there are enough lodges that none of my acquaintances are at mine. Not the Kiwis, Swedes, Canadians, or the German girl (she headed back to Namche). To quote an Apple ad, "It's kind of…a bummer."
I just stepped outside and stargazed. It was too cold to stay out. It's been too cloudy or I've been asleep too soon to see them. It's a shame because places like this or Wyoming--the sky is more white with stars than it is dark.
April--various days, things I'd left out.
I lost my good Oakley sunglasses in Namche. I guess it's karma--I had found a similar pair at the wine tasting.
My dinner at Tengboche caused quite a stir. I had the cheese sandwich. I couldn't tell if it was yak cheese because there was also onion and mustard, and that was all you could taster. More important was its shape. It had been pressed into two triangle wedges a la George Foreman Grill or some such thing. At least 3 people ordered the same after seeing mine.
I order garlic soup ate Dingboche after about 3 spoonfuls, I was done. I AM done with garlic soup. Even if it is supposed to be good for altitude.
The small prayer wheels (~1 ft high) have prayer books in them--the same ones the monks chant from. The tall one (8-10 ft) have thousand of them. Every turn of the wheel is like saying the prayer. So turning a large one is like saying a million prayers.
The large mani stone are "relatively" new. The smaller main tablets can be 600 yrs old. The large prayer wheel next to my lodge at Tengboche is 2500 yrs old.
Kagi had 4 children 3 mos-9 yrs. He guides so much he doesn't see them very much. He didn't seem too upset about this. (Nor too happy though). Sometimes in the morning he sings.
The Namche people (maybe even the whole area) are considered wealthy due to the profits they've made off of trekkers. As a result more kids are able to stay in school longer without having to quit to work. Also, the cooks and other help are rarely the owners of even from Khumbu. They hire them for cheap from other parts of Nepal. It's a bit like us hiring Mexicans and Salvadoreans in our restaurant kitchens.
There is an aversion to paper. No napkins. And Obviously no TP.
I had OJ today from a can. It tasted like no OJ I've ever had, maybe more like tangerine juice. Also stated on the can "40% juice."
I saw tahr today. This was the second time but I didn't have my camera out, and they were too far away anyway. Kagi didn't even see them and kept calling them yaks--which were next to the tahr (mtn goats). Another guide however confirmed. Kagi's nice and helpful, but this was another incident that makes me think I'm with the wrong guide.
I haven't had any blisters, but I have warded off some with duct tape. I haven't had problems sleeping, which I hear some people are having. And I haven't had an intestinal problems, although I do get nervous every time my stomach gurgles. Knock on wood.
Ama Dablam means Mother Double Mountain. Again, learned from someone else's guide.
The Canadians said trekking through Peru is great and "luxury" compared to this.
I've met quite a few nationalities including a Hungarian and a half French Half Portuguese. I'm met no Spanish speakers though.
Wednesday, April 7, 2004
Nepal. 7 April
I'm grumpy and even the cocoa isn't helping--it's weak. I'm in the lodge dining area at 5 pm in Tengboche. The Kiwi couple are here (Emily and Eddy--they hired porters and seem to be doing much better), but we talked earlier though and now they're on the other side of the room. The couple dominating the room are an annoying American couple. They are arguing about their musical tastes at lunch (they have a CD player that they share), and they were still arguing here. The guy was also slamming Salman Rushdie because her wasn't pro-American.
This was all after a harder day than I expected. And after getting to Tengboche it was quite cold, but the porter hadn't shown up yet so I was cold.
I took a few pics of the monastery and went to my room and covered myself in blankets. This is by far the worst place we've stayed. Tiny plywood rooms, lumpy bed, of course no heat (all lodges are like this though, they have a wood stove in the dining room)--and a squat toilet.
At three I got up and went back to the monastery, on the way passed our porter. I'm not sure how long he's been sitting there. I was under the impression that there was a prayer session at three. There was not. In fact we could have gone in any time. It was quite amazing. I took a whole roll in there. It was very dark, so most probably won't come out.
--On the trail earlier we passed some Tibetans. The men usually have their hair braided in pigtails which are then wrapped around each other. They seems to be dirtier and lower class. They sell goods on the side of the trail. I'm assuming in their own country, they're doing better. Kagi haggled with one and bought two rugs--
--After the monastery, I went to my room and finally changed into warm dry clothes and went to the dining room. After telling Kagi I'd like some tea, we never saw anyone. Then he left and never came back. I'm assuming he misheard me. After a while, I took it upon myself to order some (bad) cocoa.
Oh yes, and I was stupid and didn't put sunscreen on yesterday while wearing my sleeveless, so my arms are burned a bit.
The trail has also been harder than I was expecting. I'm sure the "rest" day helped, but it's not like I'm skipping up the mountain today.
I talked with a Swedish couple for a while, although you never would have guess they were Swedish. Kate was fair but dark haired. Alex looked Mediterranean--dark skin, thick eyebrows. He was interesting. Trained and worked in the dental industry but couldn't get enough time off so quite. Now he does computer consulting for 1-2 years, then travels for a year. He'd been to Nepal 7 times. He guessed I was from California when we talked about kayaking. (Somebody else guessed I was California for a completely different reason, but I can't remember who or why).
I also watched 4 older Canadians play Clubs. One of them was clearly a shark, another ok, and 2 weren't very good. I really wanted to jump in.
After a while everyone settle into reading or writing in the warm lodge. I had run out of things to do, so I went off to me 100 R (US $1.25) room went to bed.
This was all after a harder day than I expected. And after getting to Tengboche it was quite cold, but the porter hadn't shown up yet so I was cold.
I took a few pics of the monastery and went to my room and covered myself in blankets. This is by far the worst place we've stayed. Tiny plywood rooms, lumpy bed, of course no heat (all lodges are like this though, they have a wood stove in the dining room)--and a squat toilet.
At three I got up and went back to the monastery, on the way passed our porter. I'm not sure how long he's been sitting there. I was under the impression that there was a prayer session at three. There was not. In fact we could have gone in any time. It was quite amazing. I took a whole roll in there. It was very dark, so most probably won't come out.
--On the trail earlier we passed some Tibetans. The men usually have their hair braided in pigtails which are then wrapped around each other. They seems to be dirtier and lower class. They sell goods on the side of the trail. I'm assuming in their own country, they're doing better. Kagi haggled with one and bought two rugs--
--After the monastery, I went to my room and finally changed into warm dry clothes and went to the dining room. After telling Kagi I'd like some tea, we never saw anyone. Then he left and never came back. I'm assuming he misheard me. After a while, I took it upon myself to order some (bad) cocoa.
Oh yes, and I was stupid and didn't put sunscreen on yesterday while wearing my sleeveless, so my arms are burned a bit.
The trail has also been harder than I was expecting. I'm sure the "rest" day helped, but it's not like I'm skipping up the mountain today.
I talked with a Swedish couple for a while, although you never would have guess they were Swedish. Kate was fair but dark haired. Alex looked Mediterranean--dark skin, thick eyebrows. He was interesting. Trained and worked in the dental industry but couldn't get enough time off so quite. Now he does computer consulting for 1-2 years, then travels for a year. He'd been to Nepal 7 times. He guessed I was from California when we talked about kayaking. (Somebody else guessed I was California for a completely different reason, but I can't remember who or why).
I also watched 4 older Canadians play Clubs. One of them was clearly a shark, another ok, and 2 weren't very good. I really wanted to jump in.
After a while everyone settle into reading or writing in the warm lodge. I had run out of things to do, so I went off to me 100 R (US $1.25) room went to bed.
Tuesday, April 6, 2004
Nepal. 6 April--Mom's birthday
I was much too tired to write tonight, so as usual I am up early writing. I do keep sleeping in later (5), but this time I even went to bed early 8:30-9. My "easy" day wasn't so easy. I was expecting a day to myself to wander Namche and maybe hike up to the Everest View Lodge--a 5 star hotel.
At 7:30 Kagi and I left however. First we stopped at a gompa behind our lodge and then continued up the steep trail past prayer flags. After an hour we'd already climbed 1000 ft and had views of Thami which is a mountain to the west. Past that is Tibet. We continued up past a yak farm (with no yaks) and a stupa until we got to Shyangboche where they have a tiny airport, really just a dirt landing strip. That did explain how there were ale to bring up all the milled wood I saw (you can not cut trees in Sagarmatha Park) and even tractors.
After that it got easier. We went through a valley and up to Everest View Hotel. We had tea on their deck which has clear views of Everest, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. I'd actually got my first glimpse of these at the stupa near Shyangboche and was very excited.
We then went down through a potato farming town called Khumjung. It was a very quiet town. We did pass some yaks. These are now different than the dzopkyo we've seen plenty of. Those can only go up to 10l. These yaks can deal with the higher altitude better (but not the lower alt.) They are also much hairier. This is used for clothing.
We then continued through another small town called Khunde. The hospital seems to be famous, but I'm not sure why--maybe just because it exists. We stopped for a bit, but it was really just like waiting in an outside waiting room.
We started to head back to Namche for lunch, but Kagi immediately stopped and we went in to someone's house. They were all watching tv--a really bad Nepalese movie. It was like a bad 70's action flick with sound effects. The entire area has electricity from the hydro power nearby. You can even charge your cell or electronics at many lodges for a fee.
(New Zealand Room)
Kagi seemed to know these people so we had tea. This was Sherpa tea thought (yak butter). It was ok, but very salty. If they didn't add salt it would be fine. This was now the 4th kind of tea I've had. Throughout the day I usually drink black tea. I had lemon tea once by mistake (I'd asked for hot lemon). In the morning's I usually have milk tea, which is just tea brewed in hot milk. Actually, I finally realized from the lumps at the bottom, that is' powdered milk. So milk tea is really just black tea with cream. It's good.
We took off the small climb back to Shyangboche and then the big descent to town. In the end we'd done 2k ft of elevation--not quite what I'd had in mind for my easy day.
After we had lunch at the lodge, I changed and went to town. I first picked up some more postcards and then found the tiny little one shack post office. I sat down and finished the cards and mailed all 11 off. Not before I was joined by a troupe of 15 French kids all doing the same thing.
I then started looking around for gifts and ended up at a bar playing the Police and drinking a San Miguel. Despite its name it is a German style beer, which was just ok. I then went downstairs bargained with the guy and bought a shawl for Lisa and a prayer tapestry for Dawn. That was all I had with me, so I went back to the lodge to get some more $, but kept my eyes open.
By the time I was back it had started raining pretty hard, so I was limited to what the one shop I was holed up in had to offer. Fortunately, they all basically have the same things. I bought a different kind of shawl for Denise, some goofy yak socks for my mom, and a backpack cover for me. I was also going to get some yak cheese, but they were out.
It was still raining, even snowing a bit briefly. I watched a yak go for refuge in a lodge, then a minute later shooed out by the owner. I took refuge next door and checked email. It was still raining. So I darted to the lodge the yak liked and had some cocoa. It turns out, this is the lodge Jimmy Carter supposedly stayed in. I finally got tired of waiting, so I wan to my lodge. My socks were a little wet, but I didn't make out too bad.
It was only about 4 but I was cold so I crawled in my sleeping bad and started a crossword. A few minutes later Kagi knocked on my door. The monks next door were praying and we could go watch. So I changed back into my rain gear and left.
There were about 30 monks from 10-70 crowded in a room chanting from their prayer books. These are the same books that are in the prayer wheels. They also bleated their horns (oboe-ish, but brass mouthpieces) seeming at random, joined by some cymbals and drum It was quite smokey with all the incense, but I wanted to stay until the big horns came out. These are about 5' long, but collapsed up for storage. Finally they played. Sure enough--that was the sound I'd been hearing in the morning. We passed by the women monks in a separate on the way out.
We chatted with a 70 yr old Russian tightrope walker married to a German for a bit. Then went in and ate. I was tired, so I went upstairs and to sleep without reading or writing.
At 7:30 Kagi and I left however. First we stopped at a gompa behind our lodge and then continued up the steep trail past prayer flags. After an hour we'd already climbed 1000 ft and had views of Thami which is a mountain to the west. Past that is Tibet. We continued up past a yak farm (with no yaks) and a stupa until we got to Shyangboche where they have a tiny airport, really just a dirt landing strip. That did explain how there were ale to bring up all the milled wood I saw (you can not cut trees in Sagarmatha Park) and even tractors.
After that it got easier. We went through a valley and up to Everest View Hotel. We had tea on their deck which has clear views of Everest, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. I'd actually got my first glimpse of these at the stupa near Shyangboche and was very excited.
We then went down through a potato farming town called Khumjung. It was a very quiet town. We did pass some yaks. These are now different than the dzopkyo we've seen plenty of. Those can only go up to 10l. These yaks can deal with the higher altitude better (but not the lower alt.) They are also much hairier. This is used for clothing.
We then continued through another small town called Khunde. The hospital seems to be famous, but I'm not sure why--maybe just because it exists. We stopped for a bit, but it was really just like waiting in an outside waiting room.
We started to head back to Namche for lunch, but Kagi immediately stopped and we went in to someone's house. They were all watching tv--a really bad Nepalese movie. It was like a bad 70's action flick with sound effects. The entire area has electricity from the hydro power nearby. You can even charge your cell or electronics at many lodges for a fee.
(New Zealand Room)
Kagi seemed to know these people so we had tea. This was Sherpa tea thought (yak butter). It was ok, but very salty. If they didn't add salt it would be fine. This was now the 4th kind of tea I've had. Throughout the day I usually drink black tea. I had lemon tea once by mistake (I'd asked for hot lemon). In the morning's I usually have milk tea, which is just tea brewed in hot milk. Actually, I finally realized from the lumps at the bottom, that is' powdered milk. So milk tea is really just black tea with cream. It's good.
We took off the small climb back to Shyangboche and then the big descent to town. In the end we'd done 2k ft of elevation--not quite what I'd had in mind for my easy day.
After we had lunch at the lodge, I changed and went to town. I first picked up some more postcards and then found the tiny little one shack post office. I sat down and finished the cards and mailed all 11 off. Not before I was joined by a troupe of 15 French kids all doing the same thing.
I then started looking around for gifts and ended up at a bar playing the Police and drinking a San Miguel. Despite its name it is a German style beer, which was just ok. I then went downstairs bargained with the guy and bought a shawl for Lisa and a prayer tapestry for Dawn. That was all I had with me, so I went back to the lodge to get some more $, but kept my eyes open.
By the time I was back it had started raining pretty hard, so I was limited to what the one shop I was holed up in had to offer. Fortunately, they all basically have the same things. I bought a different kind of shawl for Denise, some goofy yak socks for my mom, and a backpack cover for me. I was also going to get some yak cheese, but they were out.
It was still raining, even snowing a bit briefly. I watched a yak go for refuge in a lodge, then a minute later shooed out by the owner. I took refuge next door and checked email. It was still raining. So I darted to the lodge the yak liked and had some cocoa. It turns out, this is the lodge Jimmy Carter supposedly stayed in. I finally got tired of waiting, so I wan to my lodge. My socks were a little wet, but I didn't make out too bad.
It was only about 4 but I was cold so I crawled in my sleeping bad and started a crossword. A few minutes later Kagi knocked on my door. The monks next door were praying and we could go watch. So I changed back into my rain gear and left.
There were about 30 monks from 10-70 crowded in a room chanting from their prayer books. These are the same books that are in the prayer wheels. They also bleated their horns (oboe-ish, but brass mouthpieces) seeming at random, joined by some cymbals and drum It was quite smokey with all the incense, but I wanted to stay until the big horns came out. These are about 5' long, but collapsed up for storage. Finally they played. Sure enough--that was the sound I'd been hearing in the morning. We passed by the women monks in a separate on the way out.
We chatted with a 70 yr old Russian tightrope walker married to a German for a bit. Then went in and ate. I was tired, so I went upstairs and to sleep without reading or writing.
Monday, April 5, 2004
Nepal. 5 April
It's almost 9 pm at Namche. I'm not feeling terribly well. But since I haven't had to run to the bathroom, I'll assume it's just the altitude and hope I'm better tomorrow. I did take a nap earlier hoping I'd feel better, then go out to the bars tonight. Besides not feeling well, I notice the front door of the hotel is locked, so I guess I wasn't going out anyway.
--
It's 4 am now and I woke because I had to use the loo (again a western style toila). I'm feeling much better and was hungry, which is a good sign, so I had a Cliff bar. I'd only had a cheese pizza for dinner, which was ok. It was at least as good as a Tombstone or other frozen pizza. I had wanted some apple pie or an apple filter (fritter) but wasn't up for it at the time. Being up now gave me a chance to snap some photos out the front window. I tried before I went to bed because the full moon was over the mountains, but it was too cloudy. I don't know if any of them will turn out because it was so dark. I did use 1-4 sec exposures. I've realized I need to take more pics.
After being up at 3 yesterday, I read for a while then got another hour maybe of sleep. Then the Japanese tour was too noisy so I got up. I had some tea and ordered rara (noodle) soup and chapattis and an omelet (flat). It took quite some time since the Japanese had already ordered and there was only 1 hour burner clay stove (which I forgot to take a pic of).
I ended up talking to Brian (the Canadian) for a while. He recognized my camera. I don't remember the whole conversation, but he did mention he was an adventure racer. He also said he bought a house and about 30k acres for $40k in the middle of BC.
After a late start (7:30) we got going. We were quickly in some steep terrain. My HR was up to 171 (which would be the high of the day) when we were on some long stairish section. We'd gained about 1500 ft by the time we got to Monju 1 1/2 hrs later. We stopped and had a drink. I was thirsty for a cold drink, so I got a coke (which isn't covered by my package--neither are showers, but Kagi paid for it--maybe we'll settle up at the end?) The coke was only mildly cold, and it tasted weird anyway--but I drank it. I was ready to go, but Kagi waited 1/2 hour.
We've been passed and have passed many yaks on the trail. Usually 3 or 4, but sometimes as many as 10. They're big, slow and weave. So you just get as far to the side or off the trail as possible when the come. When you are passing them though, it's a bit tougher, sometimes running by and then right in front of them--watching out for the horns.
There's also lots of chickens and roosters around the towns. One of them started crowing, which made me think of the "coo-coo-ri-coo" song, which made me think of Sophie.
There are many children along the way. Most are completely indifferent, but some will stare or say "Namaste." There is very little begging, but one group did say "Hello boom boom" which meant they were asking for chocolate or sweets. I've also passed several playing hacky-sack w/ a clump of grass. I'd though about bringing mine, and I would have given it to them.
We stopped in Jorsalle for lunch where I had dal bhat (rice & lentils). I was a little nervous because the guy who's journal I've been reading got sick from them. I thought they were tasty though & had no problems. I talked with a Kiwi couple and their guide. It turns out today is the hardest of the trek. I feel bad for the couple because they hadn't hired a porter and were going very slowly. I think they are going to hire one in Namche. We stayed here too long IMHO.
I was getting used to the bridges today. I realized it was like walking on an anchored boat--sway, sway, sway. The tallest one wasn't even the worst one. It was an older wooden suspension, but it seemed to move less.
After a big uphill we stopped for a rest. Again we waited longer than I had wanted, and I was getting cold. We started walking and I joined up w/ some Brits because Kagi was talking to a friend and going slowly. One of the Brits broke out in a Phil Collins song, the "Eye of the Tiger" and later a Madonna song. They had a very good sense of humor as many Brits do. Not long after that we were in Namche.
We walked past the stupa and payer wheels (clockwise of course) past some large water powered prayer wheels (which didn't turn) through the street(s) of Namche and up to Hotel Norling. It is on an upper left terrace of the U shaped city.
It's a nice enough lodge, again I'm in a double by myself (Kagi sleeps in the dining room). However, it claims to have an international phone, but Kagi couldn't even call KTM. It also claims 3 hot showers, but only 1 of them works…sort of. My shower was hot & cold with little & no pressure. I was cleanish, but I didn't feel better and had a chill.
I met Kagi and he showed me around town, which was not necessary since it really only has one main street. Plus, I wasn't interested in anything else at that point except email & the post office. There are lots of shops, and of course they have mostly the same stuff. We won't be stopping in Namche on the way down, so I'll probably have to buy while I'm here. It's very hard to decide what to buy people though.
After a while we got to a cyber cafe. Kagi waited. Finally he left, so I got to finish and walk around a bit. I also picked up postcards. I played some shop owner's guitar as well--he assumed I played because of the long hair. I need to learn gtr better though--it's a good ice breaker, but I don't play well enough to start a conversation.
It was at this point that I wasn't feeling good, so I took a nap.
--
It's 4 am now and I woke because I had to use the loo (again a western style toila). I'm feeling much better and was hungry, which is a good sign, so I had a Cliff bar. I'd only had a cheese pizza for dinner, which was ok. It was at least as good as a Tombstone or other frozen pizza. I had wanted some apple pie or an apple filter (fritter) but wasn't up for it at the time. Being up now gave me a chance to snap some photos out the front window. I tried before I went to bed because the full moon was over the mountains, but it was too cloudy. I don't know if any of them will turn out because it was so dark. I did use 1-4 sec exposures. I've realized I need to take more pics.
After being up at 3 yesterday, I read for a while then got another hour maybe of sleep. Then the Japanese tour was too noisy so I got up. I had some tea and ordered rara (noodle) soup and chapattis and an omelet (flat). It took quite some time since the Japanese had already ordered and there was only 1 hour burner clay stove (which I forgot to take a pic of).
I ended up talking to Brian (the Canadian) for a while. He recognized my camera. I don't remember the whole conversation, but he did mention he was an adventure racer. He also said he bought a house and about 30k acres for $40k in the middle of BC.
After a late start (7:30) we got going. We were quickly in some steep terrain. My HR was up to 171 (which would be the high of the day) when we were on some long stairish section. We'd gained about 1500 ft by the time we got to Monju 1 1/2 hrs later. We stopped and had a drink. I was thirsty for a cold drink, so I got a coke (which isn't covered by my package--neither are showers, but Kagi paid for it--maybe we'll settle up at the end?) The coke was only mildly cold, and it tasted weird anyway--but I drank it. I was ready to go, but Kagi waited 1/2 hour.
We've been passed and have passed many yaks on the trail. Usually 3 or 4, but sometimes as many as 10. They're big, slow and weave. So you just get as far to the side or off the trail as possible when the come. When you are passing them though, it's a bit tougher, sometimes running by and then right in front of them--watching out for the horns.
There's also lots of chickens and roosters around the towns. One of them started crowing, which made me think of the "coo-coo-ri-coo" song, which made me think of Sophie.
There are many children along the way. Most are completely indifferent, but some will stare or say "Namaste." There is very little begging, but one group did say "Hello boom boom" which meant they were asking for chocolate or sweets. I've also passed several playing hacky-sack w/ a clump of grass. I'd though about bringing mine, and I would have given it to them.
We stopped in Jorsalle for lunch where I had dal bhat (rice & lentils). I was a little nervous because the guy who's journal I've been reading got sick from them. I thought they were tasty though & had no problems. I talked with a Kiwi couple and their guide. It turns out today is the hardest of the trek. I feel bad for the couple because they hadn't hired a porter and were going very slowly. I think they are going to hire one in Namche. We stayed here too long IMHO.
I was getting used to the bridges today. I realized it was like walking on an anchored boat--sway, sway, sway. The tallest one wasn't even the worst one. It was an older wooden suspension, but it seemed to move less.
After a big uphill we stopped for a rest. Again we waited longer than I had wanted, and I was getting cold. We started walking and I joined up w/ some Brits because Kagi was talking to a friend and going slowly. One of the Brits broke out in a Phil Collins song, the "Eye of the Tiger" and later a Madonna song. They had a very good sense of humor as many Brits do. Not long after that we were in Namche.
We walked past the stupa and payer wheels (clockwise of course) past some large water powered prayer wheels (which didn't turn) through the street(s) of Namche and up to Hotel Norling. It is on an upper left terrace of the U shaped city.
It's a nice enough lodge, again I'm in a double by myself (Kagi sleeps in the dining room). However, it claims to have an international phone, but Kagi couldn't even call KTM. It also claims 3 hot showers, but only 1 of them works…sort of. My shower was hot & cold with little & no pressure. I was cleanish, but I didn't feel better and had a chill.
I met Kagi and he showed me around town, which was not necessary since it really only has one main street. Plus, I wasn't interested in anything else at that point except email & the post office. There are lots of shops, and of course they have mostly the same stuff. We won't be stopping in Namche on the way down, so I'll probably have to buy while I'm here. It's very hard to decide what to buy people though.
After a while we got to a cyber cafe. Kagi waited. Finally he left, so I got to finish and walk around a bit. I also picked up postcards. I played some shop owner's guitar as well--he assumed I played because of the long hair. I need to learn gtr better though--it's a good ice breaker, but I don't play well enough to start a conversation.
It was at this point that I wasn't feeling good, so I took a nap.
Sunday, April 4, 2004
Nepal. 4 April
It's seems like about 12 days since I last wrote--but it was just yesterday. I woke at 4 am, before my 5 am wake-up call. Attempted a shower, but Hot wasn't hot enough, so I just sponge bathed.
Went downstairs & had brkfst. Then Chandra came and we went to Shangra La and had brkfst again. I also checked my pack at the hotel and left shoes, extra batteries, cup…stuff I didn't need. Turns out now, I should have kept my backpack cover. But I could have left my bedroll. Chandra mentioned what a light traveler I was--which came as a surprise.
On the way to the airport, we talked about Michael Jackson & Monica Lewinsky. I met my guide at the airport, a Sherpa named Kagi from Solu. He's very nice and speaks English well. Solu is near the area we are trekking in. The domestic airport would have been very confusing w/out Chandra. Kagi & I boarded and 30 min later were at Lukla. There were a number of Brits aboard (taking up most of the 18 seats). One of them started quoting lines from the movie "Airplane." It reminded me of meeting other campers in Wyoming who told fart jokes, that is, you can always find people w/ your sense of humor anywhere--it made me smile--I haven't done this much writing by hand since high school--my hand is killing me--
--Had a disconcerting moment on the plane when the pilot had to wipe the condensation off the window w/ a rag. Then kept flicking on the gauges because they weren't aligned.
Anyway we landed and Kagi hired a porter. The street was dressed up because a Lama was coming. We bought a prayer scarf and waited. 3 hours later we left and he hadn't come.
--
Watching Sherpas carry stuff is amazing. They are usually only about 5-5'2" and wear thongs or vans. Then they use these woven baskets to carry stuff and walk w/ a short T shaped cane, which they rest the packs on while stopping. They usually carry 2, 3 & sometimes 4 peoples backpacks in their baskets. It actually looks like an ice cream cone with 2 or 3 scoops. My porter (I think his name is Kumar) is about 5' and wore converse style shoes with army fatigues pattern. At some point I remembered that Chandra had told me my guide was a big guy, so I guess I was thinking somewhere between Matthew & Tim dimensions. I never made the connection to Kagi though, who is on 5'10" about 180. Then I realized that is big for a Sherpa!
(7870 ft)
It took us under 3 hrs to get to Phakding, but we stopped for lunch at Thalsharoa. I had tea (I have been drinking tons of tea, since I know it's safe. You can get black tea or milk tea. I switch.), veg fried rice & garlic soup. All were pretty good. I stopped by their toilet & finally saw what a squat toilet was, a porta-potty type shack with a hole in the ground. Fortunately, I didn't have to squat.
Just before lunch we crossed a suspension bridge, which was kind of scary. I'm told there are 3 or 4 more tomorrow, one of which is 125 m long, and very high over the river. They are generally built by Swiss or Nepal Core of Engineers, but that doesn't make it feel any safer when you are crossing. The river we keep crossing is the Luk Kosi (koshay)--Milk Water.
By 2:30 we were stopped for the day. I had some hot lemon water, then we walked around a bit. We crossed over the next bridge & came back. On the other side was a campground for group trekkers. I was glad not to have done that because it started raining. In fact it rained for a few hours, pretty hard at times. I hope for not much of that. I do have rain gear, but left my bkpk cover at the hotel.
(Tashi Taki Lodge)
The lodge is nice, I have a double room to myself with a padlock. It has a decent foam mattress on a wooden bed. After a while other trekkers came in to the lodge, a family of Israelis (whom I had thought were French--there are many French here. ) (Chandra even speaks fluent.), about 10 Japanese (many wearing face masks--not sure if it is for dust or SARS) and a Canadian who I talked to for a while. I eventually had some potato momos (dumplings) and veg fried noodles. They were OK but very bland, and the "soy sauce" didn't help. I also had a small pot (4 cups) of cocoa--which was a mistake because I've had to go to the bathroom a couple of times. The bathroom has a real toilet, but the floor is wet and I couldn't make it flush. After dinner I went to bed, wrote for a while and was asleep at 9. Now it's 3 am and I'm awake (we don't leave until 7) so I'm finishing my journal.
It was only a couple of hours, mostly downhill, but even up my HR never went above 158. No blisters, although I did re-tied my boots tighter. I'm looking forward to Namche which should take about 5 hrs. We'll spend an extra day there acclimatizing--
--While I took extra care to hand check my film at SFO (the guard played an April Fools Joke on me and said it would take 1 hr--it took 5 mins), the other airports wouldn't do that, or I forgot. It would be wise to get a film safe pouch next time. You have to get checked at every airport between connections.
Went downstairs & had brkfst. Then Chandra came and we went to Shangra La and had brkfst again. I also checked my pack at the hotel and left shoes, extra batteries, cup…stuff I didn't need. Turns out now, I should have kept my backpack cover. But I could have left my bedroll. Chandra mentioned what a light traveler I was--which came as a surprise.
On the way to the airport, we talked about Michael Jackson & Monica Lewinsky. I met my guide at the airport, a Sherpa named Kagi from Solu. He's very nice and speaks English well. Solu is near the area we are trekking in. The domestic airport would have been very confusing w/out Chandra. Kagi & I boarded and 30 min later were at Lukla. There were a number of Brits aboard (taking up most of the 18 seats). One of them started quoting lines from the movie "Airplane." It reminded me of meeting other campers in Wyoming who told fart jokes, that is, you can always find people w/ your sense of humor anywhere--it made me smile--I haven't done this much writing by hand since high school--my hand is killing me--
--Had a disconcerting moment on the plane when the pilot had to wipe the condensation off the window w/ a rag. Then kept flicking on the gauges because they weren't aligned.
Anyway we landed and Kagi hired a porter. The street was dressed up because a Lama was coming. We bought a prayer scarf and waited. 3 hours later we left and he hadn't come.
--
Watching Sherpas carry stuff is amazing. They are usually only about 5-5'2" and wear thongs or vans. Then they use these woven baskets to carry stuff and walk w/ a short T shaped cane, which they rest the packs on while stopping. They usually carry 2, 3 & sometimes 4 peoples backpacks in their baskets. It actually looks like an ice cream cone with 2 or 3 scoops. My porter (I think his name is Kumar) is about 5' and wore converse style shoes with army fatigues pattern. At some point I remembered that Chandra had told me my guide was a big guy, so I guess I was thinking somewhere between Matthew & Tim dimensions. I never made the connection to Kagi though, who is on 5'10" about 180. Then I realized that is big for a Sherpa!
(7870 ft)
It took us under 3 hrs to get to Phakding, but we stopped for lunch at Thalsharoa. I had tea (I have been drinking tons of tea, since I know it's safe. You can get black tea or milk tea. I switch.), veg fried rice & garlic soup. All were pretty good. I stopped by their toilet & finally saw what a squat toilet was, a porta-potty type shack with a hole in the ground. Fortunately, I didn't have to squat.
Just before lunch we crossed a suspension bridge, which was kind of scary. I'm told there are 3 or 4 more tomorrow, one of which is 125 m long, and very high over the river. They are generally built by Swiss or Nepal Core of Engineers, but that doesn't make it feel any safer when you are crossing. The river we keep crossing is the Luk Kosi (koshay)--Milk Water.
By 2:30 we were stopped for the day. I had some hot lemon water, then we walked around a bit. We crossed over the next bridge & came back. On the other side was a campground for group trekkers. I was glad not to have done that because it started raining. In fact it rained for a few hours, pretty hard at times. I hope for not much of that. I do have rain gear, but left my bkpk cover at the hotel.
(Tashi Taki Lodge)
The lodge is nice, I have a double room to myself with a padlock. It has a decent foam mattress on a wooden bed. After a while other trekkers came in to the lodge, a family of Israelis (whom I had thought were French--there are many French here. ) (Chandra even speaks fluent.), about 10 Japanese (many wearing face masks--not sure if it is for dust or SARS) and a Canadian who I talked to for a while. I eventually had some potato momos (dumplings) and veg fried noodles. They were OK but very bland, and the "soy sauce" didn't help. I also had a small pot (4 cups) of cocoa--which was a mistake because I've had to go to the bathroom a couple of times. The bathroom has a real toilet, but the floor is wet and I couldn't make it flush. After dinner I went to bed, wrote for a while and was asleep at 9. Now it's 3 am and I'm awake (we don't leave until 7) so I'm finishing my journal.
It was only a couple of hours, mostly downhill, but even up my HR never went above 158. No blisters, although I did re-tied my boots tighter. I'm looking forward to Namche which should take about 5 hrs. We'll spend an extra day there acclimatizing--
--While I took extra care to hand check my film at SFO (the guard played an April Fools Joke on me and said it would take 1 hr--it took 5 mins), the other airports wouldn't do that, or I forgot. It would be wise to get a film safe pouch next time. You have to get checked at every airport between connections.
Saturday, April 3, 2004
Nepal. 2, 3 April
2, 3 April
I got about 5 hours of interrupted sleep on the plane, but otherwise it feels like I've been up for days. The flights were essentially uneventful--had to keep getting up to let the guy next to me take his mother to the bathroom. Watched The Last Samurai and Cheaper By The Dozen--not impressed by either.
The second flight was late so I had to run to the 3rd, but it was late too. Getting the visa took forever--next time get it ahead, then you can zip thru the fast lane.
Then had trouble finding Chandra and it was a little sketchy. It turned out for a good reason though--there were some violent protests downtown. Later before dinner, Chandra and I talked for a while about the politics, about US politics, about the trip. It sounds like I am going to fly to Pokra for 2 days when I'm back, then spend another 2 days in the Nat'l Park Chitwan.
Money was an issue. Many people want you to pay US$ which I didn't bring a lot of. Finding and ATM was very hard. I finally did though and thru 2 transactions pulled out the 60k rupees I owed Chandra.
Walked around a bit, bought some gloves, checked email. Saw an awesome looking German bakery that I want to try. Also saw some tables for around 16k rupees. Did not see a fabric store.
I'm staying at a *** hotel called Harati in Thamel. It's okay. Oh yeah KTM is DIRTY.
It's 9 pm--I'm exhausted. Time to catch some zzz's before tomorrow's 5 am wake-up call.
I got about 5 hours of interrupted sleep on the plane, but otherwise it feels like I've been up for days. The flights were essentially uneventful--had to keep getting up to let the guy next to me take his mother to the bathroom. Watched The Last Samurai and Cheaper By The Dozen--not impressed by either.
The second flight was late so I had to run to the 3rd, but it was late too. Getting the visa took forever--next time get it ahead, then you can zip thru the fast lane.
Then had trouble finding Chandra and it was a little sketchy. It turned out for a good reason though--there were some violent protests downtown. Later before dinner, Chandra and I talked for a while about the politics, about US politics, about the trip. It sounds like I am going to fly to Pokra for 2 days when I'm back, then spend another 2 days in the Nat'l Park Chitwan.
Money was an issue. Many people want you to pay US$ which I didn't bring a lot of. Finding and ATM was very hard. I finally did though and thru 2 transactions pulled out the 60k rupees I owed Chandra.
Walked around a bit, bought some gloves, checked email. Saw an awesome looking German bakery that I want to try. Also saw some tables for around 16k rupees. Did not see a fabric store.
I'm staying at a *** hotel called Harati in Thamel. It's okay. Oh yeah KTM is DIRTY.
It's 9 pm--I'm exhausted. Time to catch some zzz's before tomorrow's 5 am wake-up call.
Thursday, April 1, 2004
Sabbatical
[Written 5/19/08] In 2004 I earned my sabbatical at Schwab--4 weeks off plus 2 vacation. This would be the first 6 weeks off I had not worked since I started working at age 15. I wanted to take advantage of it. Denise had just bicycled through Europe on her sabbatical a few years ago, so I wanted my opportunity at a once in a life time trip.I decided on 3 weeks in Nepal, and 2 in Belize plus a week for travel, packing and recuperation. Nepal would be solo, then I would fly back home for a day, pick up Denise and we'd both head down to Belize.
I don't remember why, but I stopped writing in my journal while I was in Chitwan. I've always meant to write the rest of my trip. It's now 4 years past though, so my memory may be a bit sketchy.
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